A while ago, when I happened to visit Northern Italy, I had the privilege of staying for two weeks at the beautiful Roman town of Verona that is situated in the Veneto region of northern Italy. Situated midway between the world’s fashion capital, Milan and the most romantic place on earth, Venice, this town still holds its own. Verona claims to have more Roman ruins than any Italian city (other than Rome, of course). Most of its streets and buildings incorporate the majestic remains of ancient walls, roads and villas into their fabric with a sort of nonchalant pragmatism. The city also has more than its fair share of medieval Renaissance art and culture. The quaint town is further beautified by the Adige River, which looks more like an embanked canal.
The locals hardly seem to notice the magnificence of the town amidst sauntering along eating ice cream, chatting or checking out each other’s clothes — it is Italy after all.
However, my attempts to look like a blasé local were completely undermined as I gazed up in admiration at the Porta Borsari, with its two great arches and 12 additional arches spread over two levels.
My stay in this sleepy town of Verona was a wonderful experience, far from the hustle bustle of big cities like Rome or Milan. The town is planned along the Adige River that divides Verona in two, connected only by a multitude of viaduct style bridges. Since the 3rd century BC, Verona was a Roman trade centre with ancient gates, a forum (now called the Piazza delle Erbe) and a grand Roman arena, which still serves as one of the world’s great opera venues. This is a land with a rich historical heritage. The city’s historical importance also revolves around the fact that it became a Fascist control centre from 1938 to 1945, a key location for Resistance interrogation and a transit point for Italian Jews sent to Nazi concentration camps.
Today, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a cosmopolitan crossroads, especially in the summer when the 2,000-year-old arena hosts opera’s biggest names. I still miss my evening walks along the tree-lined embankment of the Adige River, looking at the beautiful Roman-era buildings. The famous Verona Colosseum or arena was an imposing structure that I would marvel at almost daily.
Although tourists flock to the Arena di Verona’s famous Piazza Bra, Piazza delle Erbe represents the real heart of Verona. The Piazza dei Signori next door and Centro di Fotografia Scavi Scaligeri, with its regularly changing exhibitions among Roman, ruins also are a must visit.
During the day, a market sells produce, souvenirs, and clothes; at aperitivo hour, tourists can pack the piazza’s cafes and bars. These are some of the greatest places to shop for souvenirs that represent Roman heritage spread over 2500 years.
Although Romeo and Juliet were fictional creations, Verona’s romance is real — and there’s no better place to experience it than at the Casa di Giulietta, or House of Juliet.
I happened to stay in Verona for only two weeks, but it felt much longer as the place is so scenic that it makes one lose track of time and just revel in the beauty.
Arena, Verona
DID YOU KNOW?
Three Shakespeare plays are set in Verona: Romeo and Juliet, The Taming of the Shrew and The Two Gentlemen of Verona.
Basilica Of San Zeno.
EAT TREAT
Piazza delle Erbe is well worth a look. Monday is not the best day to plan a gastronomic treat as many restaurants are closed. Verona is a great place for this frozen indulgence. A tub of chocolate and raspberry gelato is a must.
Lake Garda.
GETTING THERE
Verona’s Valerio Catullo airport is eight miles from the city. A taxi will cost you around 30 Euros or an Aerobus service leaves the airport daily for Verona railway station every 20 minutes from 6.35 am to 11.35 pm. It takes about 20 minutes, depending on traffic. If you are staying in Milan then you can catch a local train.
