I grew up in an era when television screens were black and white and school uniforms were monotoned. The only oasis of colour then, was the ice cream shop. Scoops of various hues sat under one roof. I still believe that a scoop of ice cream does more for world happiness than all other initiatives put together.
The journey began 2,600 years ago in ancient Persia. Back then, the royalty was served shaved ice drizzled with rosewater, saffron and fruits. In fact, there are still remains of the conical-roofed ‘yakchal’ in Iran, which were the forerunners of the modern-day ice storage units. The Persians are also credited with sharing the recipe of kulfi with the Indians.
Then in 200 BC, the Chinese invented a device to make sorbets and ice creams. Marco Polo is believed to have carried the recipe back to Italy with him. It is known however, that ice creams really evolved under the patronage of the French and Russian courts in the 16th century, even though they were extremely expensive.
In fact, for the smallest coin in circulation then, vendors would let you lick the insides of an ice cream bowl after the customers had eaten their order!
We have come a long way since those days, to a time when we can whip up these divine offerings in the comfort of our kitchens. If you haven’t explored the option already, here’s how you can make a start.
The writer is corporate executive chef for Mars Enterprises, Mumbai
Sweet potato and beetroot ice cream
Ingredients
Peeled and diced sweet potatoes 400 gm
Peeled and diced beetroot 400 gm
Peeled garlic 20 gm
Salt 15 gm
Crushed black peppercorns 15 gm
White bread, crusts cut off 2 slices
Extra virgin olive oil 20 ml
Juice of one lime
Mint leaves to garnish
METHOD
Cover the beetroot and sweet potato with water in a pot and boil them together along with the garlic, salt and black pepper.
When the vegetables are cooked through and the water is reduced considerably, grind them along with the remaining water in a food processor till you get a smooth puree. This puree should be able to coat the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning if required.
Soak the bread in water for five minutes; squeeze out the excess water and add it to the puree along with the olive oil and lime juice. Mix well.
Run this in an ice-cream churner. Or freeze the mixture for about two hours in a tall canister and then remove it. Stir with a whisk very briefly and then return it to the freezer. Freeze it for an hour, remove it, stir gently with the whisk and return to the freezer. Do this about seven times to incorporate air and give you a lighter product.
Your sweet potato and beetroot ice cream is ready.
Saffron and Chikki Kulfi
INGREDIENTS
Whole milk 400 ml
Cardamom pods 2
Honey 40 gm
Saffron strands a pinch
Sugar 40 gm
Crushed pistachios 5 gm
Raisins 5 gm
Chopped almonds 2 gm
METHOD
In a pot, boil the milk along with the cardamom pods; stir continuously to prevent it from sticking to the bottom and burning. Let the milk boil steadily for five minutes and then reduce the flame to a simmer.
Stir occasionally till the milk reduces to a fourth of its original volume. Stir in the honey, nuts, saffron and raisins.
Simmer for a couple more minutes and then remove from the flame. Taste and adjust the sweetness if necessary. Keep aside to cool.
For the chikki, heat the sugar in a pot till it turns a beautiful, gold caramel colour. Add the dried nuts and raisins and empty this out on a well-oiled tray. When it cools, crush it roughly with a kitchen mallet.
Stir the crushed chikki into the cool kulfi mixture.
Pour into individual bowls and freeze. Serve frozen garnished with honey and crushed chikki.
Saffron and Chikki Kulfi
Watermelon salad with lime, ginger and black pepper sorbet
INGREDIENTS
For the salad
Diced watermelon 500 gm
Mint leaves 2 sprigs
Salt a pinch
Olive oil 10 ml
Feta cheese 30 gm
For the sorbet
Lime juice 100 ml
Ginger 15 gm
Crushed black peppercorns 10 gm
Lime zest a pinch
Water 200 ml
Sugar 100 gm
Soda water 100 ml
Salt, a pinch
Watermelon salad with lime, ginger and black pepper sorbet
METHOD
In a pot, simmer ginger, black pepper, lime zest, water and sugar together.
When the sugar dissolves, bring the mixture to a boil for a couple of minutes and then simmer it for five minutes.
Remove from the heat and leave it aside to cool.
In another bowl, mix together the sugar-spice mixture, lime juice, soda water and salt. Pour this into an ice cream maker and churn.
For those who don’t have an ice-cream maker, freeze the mixture for about two hours in a tall canister and then remove it and stir with a whisk very briefly and then return it to the freezer. Freeze it for an hour, remove it, stir gently with the whisk and return to the freezer. Do this about six times to incorporate air and give you a lighter product.
For the salad, mix the watermelon, salt, mint leaves and olive oil. Sprinkle the feta on top and top it with a large scoop of your freshly made lemon-ginger-black pepper sorbet. Serve it immediately.
