Here, nostalgia meets epicurean delights

The true mark of genius is turning plebian into splendour. Nimisserie, the new fine-dining restaurant on the Brigade Road-Wood Street junctions is sheer perfection, with the most heartwarming fare. Nimisserie, Chef Nimish Bhatia’s labour of love and the product of 27 years of passion, is where nostalgia meets epicurean. The former corporate chef at the Lalit Group closeted himself for the past year, revisiting foodie sojourns, to dish up delicacies bursting with new flavours, inspired by nukads across the world, which manage to explode with a surprising homeliness.

With the chef’s “rie”juvenated hub, you have a Tawakee, made froma customised alloy for a customised meal made by three lady chefs, a Kababeree, where forgotten ideas meet international styles, and a nannaree for all things soul food. “The food is classic, with hints of modernity. Yet, it stays true. It’s a culmination of diverse culinary processes, cuisines, my experience and self design.”

The amuse bouche of papdi chaat, served with pomegranate, jeera and spice was good. Then came a chilled samosa in a melon wrapper and sprinkled with hibiscus dust, served with a fiery Nimbu chutney. The freshness was unmistakable, the chutney - delicious. Next came a Dukkah-spiced duck served atop an indi nacho and sunflower microgreens. The distinct flavour of the Egyptian herb gave our duck a nutty flavour - moist meat from regions in and around France. In his journey, Chef Bhatia has chosen local recipes, garnishing them splendidly with molecular gastronomy. A Rohelkhand style dal with citrus kuchumber chaat on a crisp, tomato carpaccio and a drizzle of truffle oil is a dish to remember! The Multani makai ka doda waddled in next, a maize-y delight with a tangy tatziki. We doused it with butter foam, for a makhan taste without the calories (nice), and chomped away, along with an orange flavoured chilli dip with hing.

The salad came in a small glass sphere, with a nice funnel of dressing. The sous vide smoked chicken (juicy) with the gorgeous arugula, flakes of marigold, basil, and delicious dehydrated pineapples, was bliss in a bowl.

The make-your-own-soup came straight from the fields - a brew of stock, shooting flavours - a molecular tomato bubble, akin to fresh tomato soup bursts, floral hints, root veggies and a fruity fragrance, with a fresh decant of herb infusion.

For mains, the Fishy Affair had three fillets – a Kasundi snapper: a gooseberry chutney tuna and a curry leaf pesto seer with curry lemon foam. The dish made every bite unique; the mustard was perfect, the sour of the gooseberry was lipsmacking and we can’t get enough of the curry leaf pesto!!

A fillet, brought to our table when it was just warm, burst on our palates. The truffle oil chicken tikka, with such a light and airy makhani in a baby copper pan with dheele ate ka paratha was succulent, and we devoured every bit, even though our tummies were full. In fact, the bread basket from the naanaree had us diving into the makhani, again and again! The kulchas of beetroot, rosemary and goat cheese were crunchy, the apricot and chilli options were sweet. The date and duck was unique too, but it was the chooran and green apple that blew us away - part murabba, part pickle, it was sheer brilliance. The chef’s go-to, Bihari pithi with pockets stuffed with spinach (wow), cottage cheese (good) and flax seed (double wow) was served with the creamiest dal and and a side of crisps.

For dessert, it was Tarte Tatin Misti Doi Crème Brulee with candied fruits and petals that came in a slab with a small Calcutta Chowringee Lane-inspired baby carriage, a crunchy brulee with yummy mishti doi – we licked those bowls clean!

The interiors have the careful detailing one is wont to find in a palatial home: Reds, champagne whites and makrana marble plate holders with beautiful inlay work made by kaarigars in Agra, a ground floor of la carte with a large bar, oomphy private dining spaces and an open kitchen. An open courtyard area, would have been the perfect touch, but we’ll let you decide!