He is crafting a revival of sorts. Parsi designer Ashdeen Z Lilaowala who is showcasing his collections at Cinnamon in Bengaluru this week speaks to us about the art of Parsi Gara embroidery.
UNESCO has recognised the Navroz festival. Ashdeen’s work is inspired by centuries of craft and craftsmanship of the Orient and Persia.
There are embroidered sarees, tunics, dupattas and clutches by Ashdeen Z Lilaowala and printed scarves, stoles, and shawls by Peter D’Ascoli.
Talking about his passion for embroidery, Ashdeen shares, “Parsi embroidery is special and different from other embroideries because of the subject matter. The motifs and style is born from a mixture of four cultures, Persian, Chinese, Indian, and European. And it is precisely this eclectic mix that makes this design legacy fascinating.”
Peter was born and raised in New York and educated at the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan. Peter met Ashdeen, an NID graduate who was working at reviving the Parsi embroidery with UNESCO Parzor Fundation, New Delhi.
Peter explains, “It is Heritage textiles that made me jump at the chance to work with Ashdeen. The exhibition is an opportunity for Ashdeen to create awareness about Parsi culture, which UNESCO has recognised.”
Ashdeen recognises Parsi embroidery as a beautiful part of this heritage that needs to be preserved and revived.
When questioned about the evolution of gara work, from a little known oriental needle art to a coveted fashion acquisition, Ashdeen, reveals, “We call our work ‘Painting with a needle’, because the embroidery is so seamless and fine with the colours blending perfectly, giving an impression of a painting. The popular patterns in Parsi gara are chakla-chakli (sparrows), margha-marghi (rooster), china-chini (Chinese man and woman), kanda-papeta (onions and potatoes), flying cranes and others.” Adds Peter, “Ashdeen is the true master of needlework, and his work reviving Parsi embroidery needs to be applauded.”
Parsi gara embroidery traces its roots to Bronze Age Iran from where it developed into a distinct aesthetic style influenced by European, Chinese and Indian culture.
Like a woven Benarasi, a fine Pashmina, or a stunning Paithani, a gara is a treasured acquisition. These beautiful creations now walk the ramp, with big name designers like Jean Paul Gaultier using the aesthetic as inspiration for his vibrant, opulent couture collections lavish with ornamental detailing.
