Uncovering the Flavours of Coastal South India With Chef Spoorthi TN
These recipes have been passed down through generations, from my grandmother, mother, or friends’ mothers. It’s about highlighting the flavours and stories behind these lost recipes, which have probably been forgotten due to time constraints or lack of availability of seasonal produce.
Chef Spoorthi TN brings the authentic flavours of Karnataka and coastal South India to ‘The Southern Table’ pop-up at Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel. With a passion for preserving ancestral recipes, Chef Spoorthi shares her insights on traditional dishes, modern twists, and the stories behind the cuisine. The five-day culinary pop-up will be on at Feast, Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel till July 20 during lunch.
How do you intend to highlight forgotten ancestral recipes from Karnataka and coastal South India through ‘The Southern Table’?
For me, ‘The Southern Table’ is all about bringing back memories and emotions tied to forgotten ancestral recipes from Karnataka and coastal South India. These recipes have been passed down through generations, from my grandmother, mother, or friends’ mothers. Growing up, I noted down many of these recipes, and now I am excited to share them with everyone at Sheraton Hyderabad’s ‘The Southern Table’. It’s about highlighting the flavours and stories behind these lost recipes, which have probably been forgotten due to time constraints or lack of availability of seasonal produce.
How do you add a modern zing to traditional recipes to make it more palatable to foodies?
Honestly, we have never really thought about giving a modern twist to traditional recipes, but when it comes to presentation, we do try to elevate them. For instance, take ‘Bheegaroota’, which is typically paired with idli and mutton korma or chops. Now, we could take it up a notch by creating a stuffed idli with mutton keema, a fusion. That way, you get the best of both worlds in one dish—the idli and the flavourful keema. It’s about simplifying and enhancing the traditional recipe without losing its essence.
Can you tell us about the significance of Junka and Paputtu in Karnataka's culinary
Junka and Paputtu are two dishes that showcase the diversity of Karnataka’s culinary heritage. What’s interesting is that they come from different parts of the state. Junka, typically found in North Karnataka, is often enjoyed as a starter or side dish with chai or mandakki. On the other hand, Paputtu, which originates from Coorg, is a more substantial dish made with broken rice or idli rava, and is commonly served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The flavours, preparation methods, and textures are all distinct, which makes for a fascinating contrast. I think there’s potential for creating a fusion or elevated version of these traditional recipes that would be both palatable and interesting.
Which dish do you think will be a surprise hit among guests and why?
I think the Hingana (hing aka with asafetida) Shavige will be a surprise hit among guests. The simplicity of the dish, with just three ingredients, belies its rich flavour profile. The combination of the pressed rice noodles with Hingana and Shavige creates a flavour bomb that’s sure to impress. I was a bit skeptical about how people would react to the strong flavour of asafoetida, but the response was overwhelmingly positive. Even the vloggers and chefs who tasted it today were surprised by how well the flavours worked together. The Ottu Shavige, or pressed rice noodles, was also a surprise hit, as people were impressed by the technique and the way it paired with the Hingana.
How do you hope ‘The Southern Table’ will contribute to the preservation and promotion of South India’s culinary legacy?
I am really hopeful that ‘The Southern Table’ will make a significant impact in the culinary industry by showcasing lost recipes and ancient family traditions. By serving home-cooked food that evokes memories of warmth and comfort, I believe our initiative will not only promote South India’s culinary legacy, but also encourage people to reconnect with their roots. It’s about creating an experience that transports people back to their own memories of cooking and sharing meals with loved ones. If we can achieve this, I think ‘The Southern Table’ will leave a lasting impression on food lovers and become a memorable part of their culinary journey.
What’s the story behind the creation of the Jackfruit Paje Madikela dish, and what makes it special?
Pachamedikela, a traditional dish from the Mangalore-Udupi region, is a beautiful representation of how jackfruit is utilised in coastal cuisine. The story behind this dish is rooted in the abundance of jackfruit trees in every household, where every stage of the fruit is used in various preparations, from poriyals or palyas and sambars to starters/sukkas. Jackfruit Pachamedikela stands out because it’s a flavour bomb that combines the sweetness of jackfruit and jaggery with the warmth of elaichi, all wrapped in banana leaves and steamed to perfection. What makes it special is the anticipation and excitement that comes with waiting for the jackfruit season, and the joy of preparing and savouring this dish with loved ones. It’s not just about the seasonal produce, but also the tradition and experimentation that goes into creating this recipe.
