A Plateful Of Surprises At FIRO, Chennai

When you walk into FIRO in RA Puram, Chennai, there’s an immediate sense of calm. The space is spread across two floors, the bar quietly gleaming at the heart of the restaurant, and the playlist—takes you to the retro age and back—setting an easy rhythm to the evening. The interiors don’t scream for attention. Instead, they let you sink into your chair and prepare for what really matters here: the food.

And what food it is.

FIRO, short for Fire and Roots, is the brainchild of restaurateur Ashish Thadani (of Ciclo) and Chef Ajit Bangera, a name that has long defined fine dining in India. But I would be lying if I said I was not taken aback when the first starter that came my way was an ice cream chat! But the first plate was only the start of the many surprises that lay ahead. Dubbed Velvety yoghurt ice-cream, the dessert starter, if I may say so, was a revelation. A melt in your mouth scoop of yoghurt with crispy spinach papdi dotted with pomegranate pearls, accompanied by beetroot-coriander chutney was refreshingly divine. It looked like a dessert but tasted like the chaat from my childhood. This set the tone for the evening— Familiar on the palate, yet strikingly new in form. Up next was the Bombay puffs, which was pure nostalgia, dressed up for fine dining.

Yet another dish that everyone at the table couldn’t stop talking about was the mushroom pâté, whose texture was smooth, earthy, and indulgent.

Chef Bangera explained that his kitchen doesn’t shy away from techniques like sous-vide or steaming if it brings out the best in the ingredient. “Why shouldn’t Indian food enjoy these methods? We use whatever technique works—stir-fry, pan-fry, sous-vide. It’s about making the food better than what it was,” he says. And that’s the point of FIRO: it nudges you out of your comfort zone.

Bangera reminded me, “What you have eaten all your life is not the only way it has to be. Food must keep evolving, otherwise it becomes ordinary.”

When the mains rolled in, I was already wondering if I had room for more. But then came the dish that every vegetarian diner would find too hard to resist: palak no paneer. Burrata on top of the delicious palak gravy was hearty and comforting, yet refreshingly new.

Another favourite was the malai dumplings which struck the perfect balance between indulgent and spiced. “If I didn’t believe in a dish, it wouldn’t be on the menu,” said the chef when I asked about his favourites. If there is still room for it, the Bharwan mirch pulao is simply unmissable. I am not going to give a spoiler here because I want you to experience it yourself and guess what’s in it.

By the time dessert arrived, I thought I would have to beg off. But curiosity got the better of me when the waiter mentioned ghee ice cream. Rightly called Semolina Indulgence—the nuttiness of the ghee, the comfort of the cake, the sweetness of the jaggery—it was like the essence of every Indian sweet I grew up with, transformed into something elegant and new. Perhaps this is what the chef visualized for FIRO— the tastes you know but transformed in unexpected ways.

As I lingered over the last bite, I realised why FIRO feels special. The interiors are minimal, the playlist is magnetic, and the service is thoughtful without being intrusive. It’s the kind of place where you can laugh with friends over cocktails, or sit in quiet conversation while the food does the talking.

The drinks, too, mirror FIRO’s philosophy—local ingredients reimagined into elegant cocktails and mocktails. My food companions couldn’t stop raving about the kokum sour, smoked old fashioned and hibiscus club, which they said paired beautifully with the mains. For those like me that love zero-proof must try spiced melon, pina fizz and pink guava. If you are not sure, take recommendations from Tanya, the restaurant manager.

Walking out into the Chennai night post a sumptuous dinner, I realised FIRO isn’t just about food. It’s about rethinking what Indian dining can be—rooted, playful, elegant, and always evolving.

Chef Bangera has a talented team comprising Chef Abhishek Mody and bar manager Tanya who ensure the experience at FIRO is outstanding.

So, if you are in Chennai, FIRO deserves a spot high on your list. Come hungry, come curious—and let the kitchen surprise you. Because at FIRO, food isn’t just served. It evolves.