This Restaurant Travelled Miles To Get Telugu Cuisine Right

What does it take to build a restaurant that truly represents a region?

Not just its famous dishes, but its homes, communities, traditions and forgotten recipes.

In my conversation with Akshay Puljal, General Manager, Total Environment Hospitality, I discovered that Oota Hyderabad is the result of a remarkable culinary journey across Andhra Pradesh and Telangana.

Before creating the menu, the team travelled over 12,000 kilometres, visiting homes, speaking to families, documenting recipes and understanding how dishes are actually prepared in everyday kitchens.

At a time when regional cuisine is enjoying a moment in the spotlight, Oota has chosen a path that goes far deeper than simply serving popular dishes. The restaurant, which recently opened in Hyderabad, is built on years of research, countless conversations and a commitment to understanding the food traditions of a region from the people who live them every day.

“In 2014, we embarked on a journey to travel across Karnataka. What we wanted to do was bring out the hyper-local essence of what Kannadiga food is,” says Akshay, narrating a little back story. 

Nellore Fish Fry

That journey covered more than 20,000 kilometres and eventually led to the launch of Oota Bengaluru in 2016. When Hyderabad emerged as the next destination, the team decided to follow the same philosophy.

“We wanted to keep the essence of hyper-local cuisine the same,” he says, adding, “So what we did for Hyderabad as well was travel across more than 12,000 kilometres. We travelled with chefs, travel journalists and videographers. We curated the menu based on the research that we did.”

The goal was never to collect recipes from books or recreate dishes based on popular perception. Instead, the team immersed itself in the everyday food culture of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana.

“We went to people’s homes. We were very specific about where dishes originated. We found out how traditionally household women make them and what the nuances are,” he recalls.

The result is a menu that reads like a culinary map of the Telugu states. From the coastal districts of Andhra Pradesh to the heartland of Rayalaseema and the culinary traditions of Telangana, every dish tells a story about where it comes from and the people who continue to make it.

One of the discoveries that stayed with Akshay came from Rajahmundry. “We came across Mamidikaya Bajji Mixture. People make bajji with raw mango and then mix it with local mixture, sauces and chutneys almost like a bhel. It was very unique for us.”

Similarly, Uggani Bajji, a beloved Rayalaseema snack made with puffed rice and chilli bajji, found its place on the menu because it reflected everyday eating habits rather than restaurant trends.

“Again, it’s not something you would usually find in a restaurant… You would find it at home,” says Akshay.

That emphasis on home-style food runs throughout Oota’s offerings. One of Akshay’s personal favourites is the classic combination of Mudda Pappu, Pacchi Pulusu and ghee.

“Everybody eats it differently,” he explains. “Some people like more dal, some like more pulusu, some want more pickle. So we serve everything separately and allow guests to mix it the way they would at home.” 

The team’s travels also challenged many assumptions about Telugu cuisine. “When people say Andhra food is spicy, it generally isn’t as spicy as what you find in Hyderabad. It’s very flavourful. It has spices, but it’s not chilli spicy,” he observes.

What stood out instead was balance. He recalls a preparation combining raw mango, tomatoes and tamarind, creating multiple layers of tanginess that somehow worked in perfect harmony. “It had three levels of tanginess, but it was beautifully balanced,” he says.

Authenticity at Oota extends beyond ingredients. The restaurant documents cooking techniques with remarkable precision. “When we visit homes, we record the entire process. If something requires four whistles, we replicate that. If a gravy needs twelve minutes, we replicate that. We don’t just record ingredients. We record how it is cooked,” he says.

That philosophy is evident in the restaurant’s signature dishes.

For non-vegetarians, the Zafrani Kacche Gosht Ki Biryani stands out. Inspired by recipes from local Hyderabadi families, it is prepared using traditional techniques and generous amounts of saffron.

“This is how a household in Hyderabad would make biryani. It’s delicate and authentic,” he says,

The Haleem-e-Khaas offers another glimpse into culinary history. Unlike the modern version where everything is mixed together, Oota serves the components separately, allowing diners to customise the dish. The porridge comes separately and the gosht comes separately. You mix it according to your liking. 

Haleem_E_Khaas

Vegetarians are equally well catered to. The menu features a jackfruit haleem, Siridhanyala Pakoda made with nutrient-rich millets, and a vegetable biryani cooked using the same dum principles associated with traditional Hyderabadi biryani.

The culinary experience extends to the beverage menu as well. The refreshing Chinta Karivepaku Fizz draws inspiration from tamarind and curry leaves, while cocktails such as Khubani Ki Mehfil reinterpret Hyderabad’s beloved apricot dessert in liquid form. Nizam-e-Khaas, meanwhile, takes inspiration from biryani itself, combining whisky with fried onions and aromatic spices.

Desserts continue the journey through the region’s flavours. There is the Treasures of Godavari, featuring layers of Madatha Kaja, kova and mango tandra. The rich Jauzi Halwa melts into notes of almonds, pistachios and saffron, while classics such as Sheer Khurma and Khubani Ka Meetha pay tribute to Hyderabad's culinary heritage.

The restaurant’s interiors tell a story too. Temple-inspired architectural details coexist with Islamic design influences, reflecting the cultural intersections that have shaped Hyderabad for centuries. For Akshay, that balance is important. “Hyderabad’s Nizami culture is as important to the region as Telugu culture,” he says.

Ultimately, Oota is not trying to reinvent regional cuisine. It is trying to understand it. As regional Indian food increasingly captures national attention, many restaurants focus on modern interpretations and contemporary twists. Oota takes a different route. It begins with research, listens carefully to communities and then brings those stories to the table.

“It will always be research-based and it will always be about understanding local cuisine and people’s mindsets rather than simply picking recipes from books,” says Akshay.

After travelling thousands of kilometres across Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, the team has created something that feels like a living archive of regional food traditions. And perhaps that is Oota’s greatest achievement. Every dish arrives carrying a sense of place.