A Dastarkhwan of Forgotten Treasures at ITC Kohenur's Dum Pukht

For a city whose culinary identity is often distilled into biryani and kebabs, Hyderabad has a far deeper repertoire waiting to be rediscovered. ‘Jewels from the Begum’s Kitchen’, the six-day showcase at Dum Pukht Begum’s, looks towards that lesser-known repertoire, drawing on recipes and techniques associated with the city’s royal and aristocratic kitchens.

“The idea was to uncover the lesser-known treasures of Hyderabad’s culinary heritage,” says Aamer Jamal, Executive Chef, ITC Kohenur. “We wanted to move beyond the familiar biryanis and kebabs and bring to the table recipes and techniques associated with aristocratic and royal kitchens. Each dish is a small piece of that culinary history.”

The menu also explores the relationship between Mughal and Hyderabadi food while recognising the distinct character that emerged in the Deccan. “There are strong connections, particularly in the use of slow cooking, aromatic spices, nuts and the dum technique,” Chef Jamal explains. “But Hyderabadi cuisine has developed its own identity through the influence of the Deccan, local ingredients and the culinary traditions of the Nizams. So they are related, but certainly not interchangeable.”

For Chef Jamal, the recipes being presented sit somewhere between the royal and the forgotten. “A little of both,” he says when asked whether the menu is centred on forgotten or royal recipes. “Some are associated with royal or aristocratic kitchens, while others are recipes that have largely disappeared from contemporary restaurant menus.” He describes them as “culinary heirlooms”, recipes that have survived through families and traditions but are not widely known today.

The menu has consequently been conceived as a journey through a Hyderabadi dastarkhwan, moving from delicate starters and kebabs towards more elaborate slow-cooked preparations. Among the dishes are Grand Mughal Roast, Raan-e-Dum Pukht, Dum Aloo, Nargis-e-Khas and Mahi Sarson, each offering a glimpse into a repertoire that extends well beyond the dishes most readily associated with the city.

Chef Mumtaz, who has been closely involved with the menu, brings the detail of those traditional preparations to the table. Describing the Grand Mughal Roast, he explains that it is a whole chicken prepared with Mughal-style sauces. The Raan-e-Dum Pukht, meanwhile, involves a whole leg of lamb cooked slowly in the dum style, with a paratha covering that absorbs the flavours of the meat. “It is stuffed with the masalas like onion, garlic and some nuts,” he says.

The menu similarly gives attention to preparations such as Dum Aloo Bharwa, where the potato is filled with nuts and other ingredients, and Mahi Sarson, a fish preparation built around a mustard-based gravy. “So basically, it is the gravy. And then we cook the fish and make a layer of it,” Chef Mumtaz explains, describing the process behind the dish.

The decision to bring these dishes to the table now is rooted in a wider curiosity about regional food traditions. “There is a growing curiosity about India's regional food heritage,” says Chef Jamal. “People don't just want to know what they are eating; they want to know the story behind it.” For him, the pop-up provides an opportunity to focus attention on a specific culinary tradition and introduce some of its lesser-known dishes to a contemporary audience.

That approach also reflects the larger philosophy behind ITC’s food programme. “It fits very naturally with ITC's focus on preserving and celebrating India's culinary heritage,” Chef Jamal says. “For us, preservation isn't about putting recipes in an archive. It's about keeping them alive by cooking and sharing them.”

In Hyderabad, that means turning the focus towards the city’s rich Nizami food culture and allowing its lesser-known traditions to be experienced at the table rather than simply remembered.

The role of Chef Mumtaz is central to that process. “Chef Mumtaz brings a deep understanding of traditional cooking techniques and the nuances that don't always appear in a written recipe,” says Chef Jamal, pointing to elements such as texture, consistency, timing and the balance of spices. “That knowledge is essential when you are trying to preserve the character of heritage cuisine while presenting it in a contemporary restaurant.”

In that sense, ‘Jewels from the Begum’s Kitchen’ is not simply an exercise in bringing back old dishes. It is an attempt to understand what has endured, what has disappeared and what can still be experienced through the act of cooking. As Chef Jamal puts it, “Each dish is a small piece of that culinary history.”

‘Jewels from the Begum’s Kitchen’, an exclusive dining experience at Dum Pukht Begum’s is on until September 30, offered A La Carte during dinner.