Biryanis, Chaaps & Rezala: The Regal Spread of Matia Burj

Unlike the sweetness-forward, mustard-heavy profiles of Bengali cooking, Matia Burj cuisine leans towards the slow-simmered, aromatic gravies and delicately layered biryanis reminiscent of Awadhi finesse. The biryani here is lighter, subtly fragrant, and often comes with a tender chunk of aloo, making it unmistakably Kolkata.

This July, ITC Kohenur brings the timeless flavours of Matiaburj to Hyderabad with the Matia Burj Festival at Dum Pukht Begum’s. On till the end of the month, this curated pop-up offers a soulful dive into dishes like Rizala Gosht, Matiaburj Biryani, Aloo Chana Biryani, Murg Chaap, and more—each carrying the flavour of a forgotten royal kitchen.

Chef Manzoor Alam, who has travelled in from ITC Royal Bengal Kolkata and ITC Sonar for this festival, shares, “Matiaburj is a place just like Charminar or Begumpet. When Nawab Wajid Ali Shah came to Kolkata, he settled in Matiaburj. He brought with him his court, his artists, and his khansamas. The food evolved there—Biryani, Chaap, Rezala—you get all of it in Kolkata now.”

He adds, “When you go to iconic restaurants in Kolkata, you will find Mutton Kasa, Chicken Chaap, Tikkiya Kebabs, and on Thursdays, Chicken Rezala. But what many don’t realise is that there are two versions of Kasa. One is Bengali-style—Kosha—slightly sweet and spicy. The other is the Muslim version—Kasa, without sugar, where the sweetness comes only from the onion. That’s the difference.”

Guests at Dum Pukht Begum’s can expect an authentic presentation of these lesser-seen variations. The Murg Chaap here is deeply marinated with poppy seed, cashew, and browned onions—all pounded into a rich paste. “In Kolkata, spices in Chaap are different. It’s not like elsewhere. You will see Tikkiya Kebabs and Mutton Chaap all on one big tawa,” Manzoor nods. “Here also, we are doing that—but refined, as per the Dum Pukht tradition.”

Chef Aamer Jamal, Executive Chef at ITC Kohenur, adds another layer of nostalgia. “This goes back to 2018 when Dum Pukht was making its way back to Hyderabad. While designing the menu, we remembered how Matia Burj used to be a section in the original Dum Pukht menu—alongside ‘Aam’ and ‘Khas’ and Habibiya specials. But the more we explored, we realised it’s not just a menu section—it’s a story. A place with real people, real food. Food not just for feasts, but for daily sustenance.”

He shares how this idea stayed with them over the years. “We would sit after service, talking about how this cuisine could find a place here. That’s when we thought—we should do a Matia Burj promotion once a year. Today is the realisation of that.”

The Metiaburj Biryani on the menu reflects this vision—fragrant, lightly spiced, with a melting piece of mutton, a golden potato, and an optional egg for those who want it. “One piece of potato, one small piece of egg. That’s it. Kolkata style,” Manzoor smiles.

For vegetarians, the Aloo Chana Biryani offers a rich, satisfying option. “It’s hearty and subtly spiced,” Aamer says, “with that same layering of ghee and gentle aromatics, just without the meat.”

And the kebabs? Large, flavourful, and unlike anything elsewhere. “Our kebabs are big,” laughs Manzoor. “Not small like you see in other places. If the kebab is big, the marinate inside remains intact. That’s the trick. The inside should be soft and soaked with flavour, not just coated outside.”

As the plates come out at Dum Pukht Begum's—steaming biryani, creamy Rezala, Kale moti ki Kebab, soft kebabs on silver platters—the guests felt they were transported to another time. A time when food told stories, when every bite held a whisper of migration, memory, and adaptation.

In the gentle clink of cutlery and the hush of saffron-scented rice, Matia Burj lives again—right here in Hyderabad.

Popup details: Details:

Where Time Stands Still: Matia Burj at Dum Pukht Begum’s,

ITC Kohenur, Hitech City, Hyderabad

15th July – 25th July 2025 | Dinner Only | 7:00 PM – 11:30 PM