A Taste of Home: Kari Apla's Unique Blend of Coastal Indian Cuisine

Deccan Chronicle caught up with the chefs at their exclusive pop-up at The Glass House in Jubilee Hills

Update: 2025-05-26 09:46 GMT
Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari (Photo by arrangement)

Celebrated Mumbai-based chefs Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari of Kari Apla in collaboration with Dr. Shabnam Banu, tantalised Hyderabad’s taste buds with their unique blend of coastal Indian cuisine. Deccan Chronicle caught up with the chefs at their exclusive pop-up at The Glass House in Jubilee Hills.

Excerpts
How did the idea of this pop-up come about?
The idea for this pop-up actually belongs to Shabnam, and it's all about showcasing Kari Apla’s signature coastal Indian flavors to the Hyderabad audience. Kari Apla, led by celebrated Mumbai-based chefs Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari, brings its unique blend of Malabar and Konkan coast-inspired dishes to The Glass House in Jubilee Hills. The decision to host the pop-up at this location seems fitting, given the restaurant’s reputation and the opportunity to share Kari Apla’s culinary expertise with a new audience. The event promises a nostalgic dining experience, featuring slow-cooked curries, fiery chutneys, and fresh seafood served in traditional banana leaves.
What makes this pop-up different from a regular restaurant meal?
What sets this pop-up apart is its unique blend of coastal cuisine from both western and southern India. It’s not limited to one region or state; instead, it’s a diverse mix of flavors and dishes, offering a distinct culinary experience for everyone. This fusion of coastal Indian food brings together the best of different coastal regions, making it a standout experience.
Banana leaf meals carry both cultural and emotional significance.
Banana leaf meals hold cultural and emotional significance, often evoking thoughts of traditional sadhya or Vishu meals. At Kari Apla, we have put our own twist on this tradition with our non-vegetarian Onam Sadhya, which showcases our cultural celebration of Onam. For our pop-ups, serving food on banana leaves allows guests to sample a variety of dishes from our menu in one meal. We have carefully curated a selection of our popular dishes, including vegetarian options, to create a unique and delicious experience. This approach enables our guests to enjoy a diverse range of flavors and dishes in a single sitting.
Is there any core childhood memory connected to any of your dishes in this menu?
Absolutely, every dish on our menu is connected to a core childhood memory or a sense of nostalgia. We intentionally infuse our cooking with elements that evoke memories and emotions, making the dining experience even more special. It's about transporting our guests back to a familiar time and place, and that's what makes our food truly meaningful.
Is there any ingredient or flavour you are excited for the guests to taste?
We are not introducing any new or experimental flavors for this pop-up. Instead, we are sticking to familiar flavors and ingredients that our guests will appreciate and recognize. Given the traditional nature of a banana leaf meal, we didn’t want to take any risks with unconventional flavors. Our focus is on serving up our signature dishes in a way that's both comforting and enjoyable for everyone.
What are the specialties on the menu?
Our menu features a variety of specialties, including Kerala-style roasts like prawn or potato, Madurai-inspired mutton cutlet, and raw jackfruit cutlets for vegetarians. We are also serving Goan-style xacuti, with options for chicken or wild mushroom for vegetarians. Alongside these dishes, we are offering idiyappam, a traditional steamed rice noodle dish that’s popular along India’s coastal regions, each with its own unique twist. We are pairing our idiyappam with the flavorful xacuti.
Why did you choose Hyderabad? Is there any particular reason?
We chose Hyderabad for our pop-up because of its cosmopolitan crowd and passionate foodies. The city's audience is receptive to new flavors and provides valuable feedback, which is essential for us as we're expanding and refining our offerings. By showcasing our regional South Indian cuisine in Hyderabad, we aim to introduce people to the depth and diversity of our culinary traditions, which often go beyond the familiar dishes known in other parts of India. Our goal is to put South Indian cuisine on the global map and share its richness with a wider audience.
Tell us about Kari Apla?
Kari Apla is a culinary venture that brings together the rich flavors of our diverse backgrounds. The name ‘Kari Apla’ translates to ‘curry leaves’ in Malayalam and ‘our curry’ in Marathi, reflecting the blend of our heritage – I am from Kerala (Mallu) and my partner is Maharashtrian. Our food is a fusion of traditional dishes from both our family backgrounds, creating a unique and delicious culinary experience that showcases the best of both worlds.
What do you have to tell the audience ?
Come hungry and just have fun.
As told to Suchitra DK, an intern with Deccan Chronicle from Kannur University.
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