Why do some high-quality, international and expensive face creams or lotions cause negative skin reactions? We speak to prominent dermatologists in India to figure out the reasons
Is your skin reacting negatively to an international beauty brand that you splurged lavishly on? It only means that despite the top notch brand value associated with the product, it has not resonated with your skin type. Often, we are tempted to buy a brand that has been talked about or promoted by our favourite movie star, who swears by its purifying qualities, not realizing that she is paid to advertise the product.
Dr. Karishma Ballani, a cosmetic dermatologist from Mumbai, opines that people assume internationally sold brands have superior products due to the extensive clinical tests conducted on them, the legal frameworks, and the enormous marketing budgets. “In reality, these products may not suit every skin type. From my experience, a lot of my patients buy overly priced foreign brands when traveling only to suffer adverse reactions and have to revert back to uncomplicated Indian brands that actually work. Skin care is not about price, prestige, but rather compatibility and efficacy. You need to understand your skin better than the flashy celebrity endorsements that come with the product.”
Always consult an expert
Mumbai-based skin specialist and dermatologist, Dr. Rashmi Shetty, cautions against using creams without consulting your dermatologist. “What works for an Indian skin really depends on where you live. There are multiple factors at play. Everything matters from the humidity factor, pollution levels, lifestyle elements like stress, sleep, diet, skin type and genetics play a key role. Your skin specialist will consider all these points before recommending the right cream or lotion.”
Beauty and fashion influencer Shrima Rai does her research before buying any creams or lotions. “I have sensitive hyper pigmentation skin so I don’t use any brands before checking what ingredients are used. In fact, I remember a brand had approached for a collab but their product caused a burning sensation on my skin so I turned down the offer.”
Fragrances can cause headaches
This writer splurged on a much-loved skin serum from a renowned luxury brand. Assured of its penetrative powers and promised with glowing skin results, she proceeded to use the concentrate for three consecutive days. It led to a migraine attack, that only subsided once she stopped using the product which cost her Rs 18k for a 15 ml bottle.
Mumbai-based Bindu Sthalekar, celebrity dermatologist, opines that “Headaches or migraines from products are less talked about, but not uncommon. Fragrances, especially synthetic ones, can act as neurological irritants, leading to migraines in sensitive individuals. Similarly, if your skin barrier is compromised, even a mild product can cause stinging or burning.”
Allergic reactions to preservatives
A prominent socialite (who wishes to remain anonymous)recollects with horror her experience of using a moisturising lotion from an iconic foreign brand. “I was gifted a high-end sunscreen by a friend. I remember applying it at night and woke up with hot, itchy skin and I felt like my face was on fire. This was unusual as my skin is not sensitive. I instantly messaged my dermatologist and asked to see her immediately. It was diagnosed as contact dermatitis and I was treated accordingly.”
Dr Karishma Ballani, explains that adverse reactions often stem from ingredients not suited to your skin type. “For instance, sensitive skin may react adversely to strong preservatives, perfumes, and other harsh chemicals. Common ingredients known to inflict burning, rashes, tears, and even hormonal problems include parabens, phthalates, and sulfates.”
Chemicals to watch out for
Often there is a tendency to buy brands off the rack without checking what ingredients have been used. That is where the danger lies. “Avoid ingredients like parabens (preservatives linked to hormone disruption), phthalates (carcinogenic plasticizers), formaldehyde, triclosan (an antimicrobial and endocrine disruptor), Oxybenzone, found in some sunscreens, is both a hormone disruptor and environmentally harmful,” adds Bindu.
When choosing skincare or beauty products, it’s important to be aware of ingredients that cause irritation. “Artificial fragrances and dyes are among the biggest triggers for skin irritation, rashes, and even headaches or migraines in sensitive individuals. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate(SLS) is harsh foaming agent often found in cleansers and shampoos. SLS can strip the skin of its natural oils and disrupt the skin barrier,” cautions Dr Bindu.
