As cosmetic companies face flak for exaggerated sun protection claims, experts break down what one should look for in a sunscreen
Earlier this year, we saw a pitched battle between Lakme and The Derma Co over SPF factors. The latter accused the cosmetics giant of targetting them through their ad campaign. In the ad, Lakme had warned of a certain label which had exaggerated its SPF value.
In their recent annual guide, Environment Working Group said that only 10 percent of sunscreens reviewed in 2025 have SPF values higher than 50. A recent finding by consumer advocacy group CHOICE revealed that several popular sunscreens in Australia fail to provide the sun protection they claim on their labels.
Amid these cases, it is important that buyers know what they are getting for their money. We ask a few dermatologists to decipher the SPF number game.
What do SPF numbers mean?
Dr S Madhuri, consultant dermatologist at Apollo Hospitals, says: “SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, and it indicates how well a sunscreen can protect your skin from UVB rays, the rays responsible for sunburn and a major contributor to skin cancer. SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays, SPF 50 blocks around 98%.While higher SPF does offer slightly better protection, the improvement is marginal beyond SPF 50. No sunscreen can block 100% of UV rays.”
Reapplication is key
Stating that a good sunscreen, used correctly, is one of the most effective ways to guard against premature aging, sunburns, and long-term skin damage, Dr Madhuri says, “SPF values are based on proper application roughly 2mg per cm of skin and must be reapplied every 3 to 4 hours. In reality, most people apply much less than required, leading to significantly reduced protection.”
“India’s tropical climate, high UV index, and long summer seasons make sun protection necessary year-round — even on cloudy days or indoors as UVA can penetrate windows,” adds the doctor.
How does SPF work?
“If your skin typically starts to burn after 10 minutes in the sun without protection, applying SPF 30 theoretically allows you to stay in the sun 30 times longer about 300 minutes before burning. But real-life factors like sweating, swimming, and how much product you apply can lower that protection,” says Dr Madhuri.
“SPF only measures UVB protection. For UVA (which penetrates deeper and causes aging, tanning, and long-term damage), you need a broad-spectrum sunscreen, which protects against both UVA and UVB rays,” she adds.
Regulation
Are there regulatory bodies in India to check the claims made by sunscreen companies?
Yes, we do have one. Sunscreens come under cosmetic product category in India and are regulated by Central Drugs Standard Control Organisation (CDSCO),” says Dr Divya Siddavaram, senior dermatologist at Care Hospitals. Throwing light on other products that can protect from the sun, Dr Divya says: “Products such as moisturisers with added SPF, zinc oxide containing powder and lipbalm with SPF do help.Vitamin C or Niacinamide containing products may help reduce sun damage. But these products don’t give full protection unlike a sunscreen.”
Harmful ingredients
Are there harmful ingredients in sunscreens that we should be careful about? “Studies are showing that certain ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone and octinoxate cause endocrine disrupting effects when absorbed into the body. These compounds are believed to have deleterious effects on coral reefs and marine life. Mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are considered safer,” informs Dr Divya.
Guide for Indian skin and climate
· SPF 30 or higher is recommended
· Broad-spectrum protection is a must
· Water-resistant formulas are good for humid or sweaty conditions
· Gel-based or matte-finish sunscreens are often better for oily or acne-prone Indian skin
· Tinted sunscreens can help blend better with medium to darker skin tones and avoid white cast
Sunscreen Guide
India’s tropical climate means high year-round UV exposure. Here’s how to choose the right SPF:
· SPF 30–50: Suitable for daily indoor use or light exposure.
· SPF 50+: Recommended for outdoor activities, travel, or prolonged sun exposure such as on beaches, treks, or during fieldwork.
· In hot, humid regions, frequent reapplication is critical especially if you’re sweating or wiping your face often.
— As told by Dr S Madhuri
