Fast-fashion brands are charging more for polyester-heavy garments, leaving consumers questioning whether they’re buying quality or just an expensive label
For decades, polyester has been known to be fashion’s affordable workhorse. But of late, it is being sold as a premium proposition. Fast-fashion brands are manufacturing polyester-heavy garments, with price tags comparable to those of garments made from more expensive fabrics such as cotton and linen. While the fabric remains highly accessible and cheap, consumers are questioning whether this is the new normal.
Zeeshan Akhtar, Co-founder, Zero Tolerance says, “Manu-facturing and logistics do cost money, but I question how much of the higher price actually improves the garment. When a material that’s cheap to produce is sold at a premium through branding alone, we have to ask whether people are paying for quality or for an image.”
Fast-Fashion Paradox
Fast-fashion brands have long faced criticism for their environmental footprint. The industry has been under scrutiny for creating a market of disposable fashion, waste generation, rapid production cycles and heavy use of synthetic fabrics. Now, selling polyester-made goods at premium pricing has become another point of contention for the industry. Turn over most garments price tags and it will say ‘100% Polyester.’
Akhtar points, “Much of fast fashion is mass production rather than craftsmanship in the true sense of skill, originality and attention to detail. Brands borrow trends. from one another, produce similar garments at scale, and differentiate them through marketing.”
Mass production lowers the manufacturing cost yet fast-fashion brands continue to sell their garments at increasingly higher price points. The growing gap between retail and production prices is prompting consumers to question what they are actually paying for. Consumer frustration is growing as they navigate the adverse effects of the materials used, production methods and cost.
Pricing it Chic
Although the cost of polyester has risen because of price fluctuations in polyester yarn, other raw materials and energy sources required for production, they have added to the manufacturing cost. The final price tag reflects more than the cost of the fabric, production, design and logistics. The difference becomes more visible when similar looking polyester heavy garments from newer and home-grown brands are available at significantly lower prices. This suggests that brand value is a substantial part of what consumers are paying for these garments. Zeeshan continues, “Consumers are taught to link a label with status and belonging, so they pay for the feeling of owning something desirable rather than a better product. This is exactly what pushed me to start Zero Tolerance”.
Wearability Quotient
Beyond the value and composition lies the question of consumer satisfaction. R V Purusothaman, Fashion Designer and Creative Director, Purushu Arie says, “Premium is very much a perception, many times it is not about the product but about how much is being spent on marketing and brand positioning rather than the product itself.” Premiumisation, therefore, should be measured not just by how a garment looks, but also by the comfort and value it provides to the wearer.
The Green Cost
The fabric also has an environmental cost that is difficult to overlook. Polyester fabric is made from fossil fuel driven raw materials. Its durability allows the garments to last longer. However, polyester is not readily biodegradable, it persists long after its cycle as a garment. Though the fabric can be recycled, its downcycling methods remain limited, especially if blended with other fabrics. It contributes significantly to landfill waste and pollution. Polyester also sheds microfibers in its lifecycle, particularly while washing.
The cost of recycling polyester and ensuring ethical production add another layer to its price. Ultimately, the environmental cost of polyester cannot be separated from the economic realities that shape what consumers can afford. “Products sold as sustainable and ethically manufactured automatically come at a higher price. In India not many can afford it. That is why the majority of people are forced to purchase cheaper polyester. Therefore, sustainability goals can never be addressed until socio-economic inequality is being addressed,” Purusothaman points.
Polyester Problem
• Polyester has often been criticised for being less breathable and potentially uncomfortable against the skin.
• Polyester fabric is wrinkle-free, offers durability and versatility. Its ability to manage moisture in humid conditions can become a major concern.
• It traps sweat and heat, leading to skin irritation and even body acne breakouts in people with sensitive skin types.
• Polyester is not readily biodegradable, it persists long after its cycle as a garment.
