THE ‘NEW OLD WAYS’ OF BLACK & SILVER MAGIC

Just outside Kokapet (where land prices are zooming up every day), centuries-old craft traditions are being reimagined for modern living. At Nolwa Studio, founder and creative director Rohit Naag is exploring an ambitious idea: that India’s traditional crafts can be as aspirational and globally relevant as any contemporary design object.

At the centre of this exploration is Bidri, a 600-year-old craft known for its distinctive contrast of intricate silver inlay set against a deep black metal alloy. Historically produced in the Deccan, Bidri objects were once treasured in royal courts and aristocratic homes. But in modern homes, such objects, typically boxes, vases, and decorative artifacts, have struggled to find relevance.

“The craftsmanship is extraordinary,” says Naag, pointing to the fine hand-inlaid silver patterns characteristic of Bidri work. “But the typology hasn’t evolved much. These objects were designed for another time. Today, people want things that integrate into their everyday spaces.” This observation became the starting point for the studio’s work: merging traditional craft with contemporary design so that these centuries-old skills can speak to a new generation. The studio’s name itself reflects that philosophy. Nolwa stands for ‘new old ways,’ an idea that suggests both continuity and reinvention. “Our goal is to merge modern design sensibilities with traditional Indian craft,” the 40-year-old explains. “The skills, techniques, and processes in crafts like Bidri are extraordinary. What was missing was design intervention: something that could reinterpret them for contemporary life.”

Through limited-edition design objects such as lamps, coffee tables, and cabinets, the product and design are attempting precisely that: transforming a traditional craft into collectible pieces of functional design.

From Engineering to Craft

Naag’s journey into the world of craft and design has been anything but conventional. Trained as an engineer, he followed the traditional academic route before realizing that his professional path did not align with his creative interests. After studying engineering, he moved to the US to pursue engineering management at Duke University and later completed an MBA at INSEAD in France. His career included stints in consulting, renewable energy, agribusiness, and analytics across the US, Europe, and Asia. Yet something was missing. That eventually led him to design and, to India’s craft traditions. Returning to India, he began exploring craft clusters across the region, visiting workshops and artisan communities to understand how these traditions functioned. Over time, he studied nearly a dozen craft clusters in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana.

Design & Interpretation

Among them, Bidri stood out for its intricate process and the possibilities it offered for design reinterpretation. The craft involves an elaborate multi-step technique where artisans engrave patterns onto a metal alloy and fill them with pure silver inlay. The object is then treated with a special soil mixture from Bidar Fort, which oxidises the base metal into a deep black surface, leaving the silver patterns gleaming in contrast. Every piece created at the studio follows three core criteria. The first is being ‘one step ahead of the machine’; designs must involve craftsmanship that is difficult for machines to replicate. The second is craft centricity, meaning the object must rely fundamentally on the craft itself; if the handcrafted element were removed, the piece would lose its identity. The third is what Naag calls the ‘X factor’, a design quality that sparks curiosity and invites a second look.

Redefining an ancient art artform

For Naag, the craft’s complexity was precisely what made it exciting. “I found it fascinating that such a sophisticated craft wasn’t playing a role in contemporary design,” he says. But reimagining Bidri for modern contexts has required more than aesthetic changes. Many of the studio’s designs explore complex forms rarely attempted in the craft. He collaborates with global artists such as Gunnar Rönsch and Stephen Molloy from Germany and Ammar Kalo from the UAE to create innovative designs. Today, they work closely with master artisans and their teams, supporting craftsmanship while encouraging experimentation with new forms.

Master Craftsmanship

• Bidri is a 600-year-old craft from Deccan known for its distinctive contrast of intricate silver

inlay set against a deep black metal alloy.

• Bidri objects were once treasured in royal courts and aristocratic homes.