Iconic Chef Shares Life’s Secret Recipe

Some stories inspire, and a few linger like the taste and aroma of good food. Culinary giant Maria Abraham’s (67) story stays with you much like the aroma of a cherished family meal: warm, comforting, and unforgettable.

Undeterred by the mouth cancer that partially took away her sense of taste, Maria continues to spread joy through her delicious food and create unforgettable memories. The diagnosis in 2022 was particularly cruel for a woman whose identity was so closely intertwined with cooking and tasting food. “I was told that the cancer had to be removed surgically from my mouth along with a portion of my palate,” recalls Maria with a wry smile.

Against All Odds

After her surgery, Maria had lost some of her ability to taste, but she refused to let these limitations define her. She relied on the palate and sense of taste of her family and trusted kitchen helpers. “I had to modify my eating habits. I had to give up spicy or sticky food. Even drinking water had to be done with care as the water could flow into the nasal cavity,” says Maria, who is now a household name when it comes to authentic Kerala cuisine in the country.

For Maria, the connection between food and identity is deeply personal. She speaks passionately about Kerala's Syrian Christian cuisine. “Every dish has its own foundation, its own authentic taste and recipe," she says.

Gastronomic Journey

Born in Kanjirapally in Kerala’s Kottayam district, Maria’s gastronomic journey began long before she ran a successful food business and baking classes. It began in the kitchen of her mother, Rose Antony. A student of Sophia College, Bombay, in the 1930s, Rose was equally skilled in Western cooking and Kerala's Suriyani cuisine.

Her mother taught them that cooking was an act of care. So, years later, when Maria saw surplus vegetables and fruits from her estate going to waste, she decided to convert them into chips, pickles and homemade specialities.

Drawing upon the traditional food-making skills her mother had taught her. Maria created products without artificial colours, additives or preservatives while retaining authentic flavours.

Food is a living archive of a people's history, geography, traditions, and collective memory. Maria explains, “When any dish enters a different household, each family adds a little bit of itself to it. A spice here, a technique there, a cherished family touch. The dish changes ever so slightly, yet never loses sight of where it comes from.”

It is this delicate balance between tradition and individuality that gives the cuisine its enduring charm, a symphony of flavours. As word of Maria’s cakes and baked creations spread, many women began approaching her to learn the craft. “That’s how I started conducting baking and cake decoration classes from my home,” she says.

Food For Thought

Despite the challenges, Maria continues to be passionate about food and sharing the skill with others. “As for being a culinary star, I see myself as a traveller still reaching out to the stars. Learning more and more along the way,” she says.

Her dream is to pass on the love for cooking that she inherited from her mother to future generations. She hopes to inspire young people to rediscover the richness of traditional cuisine and appreciate its simplicity, health benefits, sustainability, and joy.