Doctors warn that some fairness crème could alter hormones, trigger facial hair growth and leave permanent scars
For decades, fairness creams have sold dreams in shiny tubes — lighter skin, better jobs, faster weddings, and a guarantee of success. But behind the glossy promise lies a darker reality. Doctors across dermatology, endocrinology, and psychiatry now warn that these products are not only unsafe but also capable of altering hormones, triggering facial hair growth, and leaving permanent scars — on both skin and self-esteem. Dr Vaaruni Ravishan-kar, Consultant Dermatology, MGM Healthcare, Chennai, has seen this pattern repeatedly: “Steroids stimulate hair follicles in non-androgen-dependent areas, leading to thickened hair where women usually don’t grow it.”
Face-Off Time
Indian drugstores are full of creams promising a fairer complexion, but experts warn many contain harmful ingredients. Dr Shareefa Chause, dermatologist in Mumbai, says creams with mercury can damage kidneys, causing diseases like nephropathy, while hydroquinone may lead to irreversible dark patches (ochronosis). Potent steroids thin and irritate the skin, creating dependency. Dr Saranya B, dermatologist and Medical Advisor at Kaya, adds that over-the-counter creams often combine hydroquinone, mercury, and corticosteroids — offering quick results but risking long-term skin, kidney, and nervous system damage.
Hair-trigger Effect
One of the most surprising side effects of fairness creams is facial hair growth. Dr Chause explains that hidden topical steroids disrupt hormone balance, triggering excess hair growth. Meanwhile, bleaching agents don’t increase hair but lighten surrounding skin, making fine facial hair more noticeable and giving the illusion of thicker growth.
The effects of fairness creams go beyond the skin. Endocrinologist Dr Sneha Kothari of Gleneagles Hospital, Mumbai, warns that absorbed steroids mimic cortisol, disrupting hormones and causing hypertrichosis — unwanted facial hair. Prolonged use can trigger systemic issues like irregular periods, sudden weight gain, and even Cushing’s syndrome, says surgical endocrinologist Dr KS Thalavai Sundar Ram of VS Hospital, Chennai. A cosmetic fix for uneven skin tone can thus spiral into serious hormonal disorders, turning an everyday vanity product into a risky gamble.
Un(fair) Effects
The immediate side effects of fairness creams — itching, redness, or acne — are easy to dismiss. But the long-term consequences are far more severe. Chronic steroid use leads to irreversible thinning of skin, prominent blood vessels, patchy pigmentation, and in some cases, persistent hair growth.
Dr Monika Sharma, Senior Consultant Endocrinology at Aakash Healthcare says that strong steroid creams are used for weeks or months, even a small absorbed dose can disturb hormones. She adds, “Women may develop coarse hair on
the upper lip or chin, irregular periods, or weight gain. Over the years, it can weaken bones or raise blood sugar. It tricks the body into hormonal imbalance.”
The early warning signs, according to doctors, include unusual acne, hair where it never grew before, thinning skin, and bruises. If ignored, the cascade can lead to metabolic disorders.
The Price of Fairness
The damage is not just skin-deep. Psychiatrists stress that fairness creams are a symptom of a deeper cultural obsession with lighter skin.
“Fairness creams thrive on marketing. Ads show cinema stars glowing with pride after applying them, suggesting that success and confidence are tied to skin tone,” explains Dr Mithun Prasad, Consultant Psychiatrist at SIMS Hospital, Chennai.
This conditioning starts early. “From childhood, children hear, ‘Don’t go in the sun, you’ll get dark.’ Marriage ads still demand ‘fair brides.’ So even when young people know the risks, they feel trapped,” says Dr Minakshi Manchanda, Associate Director of Psychiatry at Asian Hospital.
Despite the deep-rooted bias, there are signs of change. Social media campaigns and influencers are pushing back against “fair equals beautiful.” Dr. Prasad adds that while fairness creams may be losing ground, other beauty products are rising to take their place. “The obsession has shifted from fairness to enhancement. It’s no longer just about colour but about filters, glass skin, or anti-ageing. The market adapts, but the core insecurity remains.”
Ultimately, the goal should shift away from “lighter” skin to “healthier” skin. Building a simple, consistent routine rooted in protection and nourishment can do more for long-term glow than any fairness cream on the shelf. Young people are beginning to embrace skin positivity. Gen Z especially is less likely to buy into fairness myths, though the pressure still exists from family and traditional advertising.
The conversation about fairness creams is no longer just about cosmetics — it’s about health, identity, and self-worth. The creams that promise fairness may in fact steal confidence, health, and even hormonal stability. Real confidence doesn’t come from a tube. It comes from skin that’s cared for — and from a society that finally learns to celebrate every shade.
Safer Alternatives
• In India, sun exposure is the biggest culprit behind pigmentation and uneven tone, making daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen the single most effective step.
• Hydration is another key player. A good moisturizer keeps the skin barrier strong, while an antioxidant-rich diet—think fresh fruits, vegetables, nuts, and green tea—works from
within to protect against free-radical damage.
• For targeted concerns like pigmentation, gentle actives offer a safer alternative to bleaching agents. Ingredients such as niacinamide, kojic acid, alpha arbutin, retinols, and chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs can improve skin tone when used correctly. These options don’t promise instant transformation but deliver gradual, sustainable results.
• Those looking for more intensive care can explore dermatologist-guided treatments. Lasers, chemical peels, mesotherapy, and vitamin C therapies are designed to enhance radiance and evenness—not to bleach away natural colour.
