The seminar drew attention to the technical complexity and labour involved in traditional textile-making: Reports
HYDERABAD: The intricate techniques behind traditional weaving and the communities whose labour sustained textile production, were among the subjects discussed at a national seminar held at Maulana Azad National Urdu University (Manuu) on Thursday.
Organised by the H.K. Sherwani Centre for Deccan Studies, the seminar, ‘Textile Traditions of the Deccan: Materiality, Labour and Technology’, brought together researchers and textile revivalists to examine the region’s textile heritage, from historical records and traditional designs to the technology and labour involved in producing fabrics.
Prof. Sanjay Subodh of the department of history at the University of Hyderabad spoke about textile traditions and the social communities involved in textile production through the ages. Intach-Hyderabad convener and heritage conservationist Anuradha Reddy displayed saris belonging to her mother and grandmother, some dating back to 200 years. The collection included sarees from Gadwal and Narayanpet.
The discussions examined textiles not merely as finished products, but also through the skills, labour and traditional knowledge required to produce them.
With samples of older textiles, including Kalamkari, were displayed, experts discussed the technical complexity of traditional weaving, the craftsmanship and processes behind intricate patterns. Discussions also examined how as well as how techniques, natural dyes, materials and designs evolved over centuries, and how artisans and weaving communities preserved these practices across generations.
The seminar drew attention to the technical complexity and labour involved in traditional textile-making. The Telia Rumal, a double-ikat textile made using a process that involves treating yarn with gingelly oil, was discussed as an example of the specialised knowledge required to produce such fabrics. A single piece can cost around ₹2 lakh to ₹3 lakh, reflecting the intricate process and skilled work involved.
Seminars were also held on research on fabrics, colours and textile techniques during the Qutb Shahi and Mughal periods. “I learned of the historical use of Kalamkari, including in tents and bedsheets, bringing attention to the varied uses of textiles in the Deccan,” said Dr A. Subash of Manuu’s Deccan Studies.
Prof. Rekha Pande discussed textile traditions in relation to labour and technological transformation. A technical session featuring Prof. Pushpa Sharma of Kurukshetra University examined textiles in the Deccan through Persian and Sanskrit texts.
The seminar connected historical research with contemporary efforts to revive traditional crafts, promote natural fibres and sustainable production, and transmit indigenous knowledge to future generations. The decline of traditional textile practices and the challenge of sustaining artisan knowledge remained central concerns.
Textile revivalist Uzramma Bilgrami, Manuu Vice Chancellor Prof. Syed Ainul Hasan. A. Vani Prasad, special chief secretary, tourism and culture, university registrar Prof. Ishtiaque Ahmed, master weaver Gajam Govardhana, a Padma Shri awardee, were present.
Prof. Salma Ahmed Farooqui, director of the H.K. Sherwani Centre for Deccan Studies, said the deliberations addressed the historical importance of textile production and the contribution of artisans and weaving communities to the Deccan’s economic and cultural life.
