To know Israel, is to understand its history. How this land of seas, deserts, mountains, springs, caves and relics evolved. It’s untouched brilliance and azure coastlines of 273 km are a mix of turquoise blue and curacao luminescence across stark backdrops of ragged desert. We followed the blue tinged waters along this historical route, where the Jordan Rift Valley formed due to tectonic movements in the Dead Sea. Its natural wonders astound you.
The Dead Sea farers
Our journey started from Jerusalem, deep in thought at the Christian and Muslim religious legacy nestled in this Jew state, mulling about the unrest even as we passed calm and peaceful surrounds, and its unquestionable richness, as we drove past the Negev and Judean Deserts in the hottest of hot. Passing sea level, the road winds down, as we spotted far off, the cave where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found, and reached the lowest point on earth — more than 400 m below sea level — the wondrous Dead Sea. Like a sapphire and turquoise blue meteor shower, the landscape transforms from stark to azure, brilliant and waveless, caressed by salt scribbles from the earth’s past. We stayed at the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve’s resort, a kibbutz exemplifying the country’s path-breaking agricultural know-how. Marshy, sandy land, with crevices due to the depleting levels of the Dead Sea, which our knowledgeable and warm guide Shelly Eshkoli informed us, were being addressed with concerted effort, we hopped on a shuttle to Ein Gedi Sea of Spa where a carriage led us to this sea of salts and minerals. But NOTHING prepared us for the heat, hot water and the ethereal beauty. Spectacular, this silent sea shone as people tiptoed over crystallised salt sands to jump in. We didn’t dive in as we were told to keep our faces away from the water at any cost… it’s 32 percent salt! Instead, we slowly went chest deep into this unbelievable invisible seat of water with buoyancy. Astonished at the incredible lift that we had only heard of, you can read a book, gaze into its bluish expanse… or float side-ways (as many did), for a selfie-ridden moment. There are two vantage shelters on either side for a shaded haven with ropes to hold as you marvel at this implausible feat of buoyancy… a yelp and a fanciful yodel from fellow Dead Sea farers brings a grin and childish glee at sitting in water! Asked not to rub our eyes, or touch the face… given the excruciating sting of salt water… we spotted many tearing up, either plain curious or foolhardy! We tread carefully into muddier shallow pools following other beauty seekers to lap ourselves with mud… in the hope of beauty a ka Cleopatra style, as she used this as her personal beautifying ground. A shower of clean water on the beach… hot water, mind you, but much-needed, under a scorching sun… 44 degrees and counting… you walk towards the last carriage at 5 pm… It’s hot, the salt crystals are a tough tiptoe… but this ultimate beauty treatment strangely relaxes you. Drinking lots of water, lemonade, the Israeli’s refreshing answer to the heat, we then jumped into sulphur pools inside the spa, with more health rejuvenating benefits though you might want to breathe miserly as the smell is not for the faint-hearted. Fifteen minutes, and you are rejuvenated. How you look might be debatable, though. Get on the shuttle back, a meal of hummus, tahini, salads and breads awaits, as you comprehend these footsteps into time — where Jesus tread, Moses gave his 10 Commandments and Cleopatra beautified. Locals, we know prefer going into the Dead Sea at night, which is a cooler option, no doubt!
Red Sea-farers
We drove to Eilat, following the bluest of blue to Israel’s part of the Red Sea, resting in the Gulf of Aqaba bordering Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Saudi Arabia. Biblically, we were greeted by words from the Book of Exodus referring to the Yam Suph that was crossed in the 3rd century BC (meaning Sea of Reeds in Hebrew), which is how it was named, albeit with ‘e’ forgotten.
Circa 2017, we were taken aback by its curacao-saturated cold, cold waters. Ambling across the promenade for a swim, we dove in, revelling in the nippy waters, flitting fishes going about their day’s chores, gazing at the clear bottom and the far off Jordan flag swaying, it was bliss. In the evening, we made our way to the Retro musical fountain where little Israeli tinytots rain danced quite acrobatically. I lost my camera here, and called the emergency services, also filed a very prompt police complaint. And as is known about Israeli security, miraculously, I got it back thanks to a very kindhearted woman who came with family in tow, to return it. A glimpse of Israeli fervour — welcoming, hospitable, helpful and secure even if the turmoil in the region disconcerts. We visited the Dolphin Reef at Eilat, an ecological site where we met some friendly bottlenose dolphins, who were only too happy to have their bellies rubbed. They are dives with dolphins offered here too. The water is at its sparkly best. The Oceanarium is also a must-visit to walk the underwater route, converse with the marine life and climb up to the vantage point for picturesque views.
Mediterranean blues
The Mediterranean beckoned our water loving souls, with a four hour drive to Tel Aviv — this city of sky scrapers borders oodles of beaches and is among the best cities to live in. It’s active sporty populace might make a believer out of you. If the Mediterranean does not. Our hotel was right on the beach, with surfers in abundance thanks to the high waves that drenched our perfect shot more than once. A few meters across is Gordon Beach, our dipping ground into the coolest of clear blue sapphire waters, sandy shores and a sea bed you can see for miles — The Banana, Jerusalem and Hilton beaches are among the many where you can surf, play beach volleyball, soak in the salt pools or just sip a Sephardic-inspired Jewish cocktail. You can hire a green cycle and pedal across Gordon Beach to the Jaffa side of Tel Aviv, which is like a necklace of lights… with bars as far as the eye can see lapped by the pristine swell of blue. Or you can taxi it to the hipster neighbourhood, Florentin’s Neve Tzedek, which has slowly evolved into a hub of bars, music and artsy leanings. Here you can pay with a Florentin shekle, an app instead of using real money for a taste of Tel Aviv’s soho nights.
And when you leave, marvelling at the Israeli hospitality, our guide Shelly and our trusted affable driver Tzvika Avramovitz’s constant presence, your mind still darts towards the glint of the water. The luminous azure waters of the Red Sea and the Mediterranean, like a wide expanse of blue curacao heals the soul, or the sauna-like salt tuffed hot beaches of the Dead Sea and that magical buoyancy takes you back in time. When it comes to lasting impressions, Israel’s beauty, history and legacy stand tall. And you have learnt so much.
Eilat
The promenade along the Red Sea has wonderful retro bars that one can visit, we went to Three Monkeys, a breeze of live retro. The seafood here is brilliant, and you can sit on the beach front as you look to the Jordon side glinting, or take a party route to the many night clubs like Saleena that only start by midnight. It a hub of flea markets, amusement park rides, you can also hire a caravan and live the life of a beach bum… or sign up for parasailing, snorkelling, boat rides, deep sea dives, or just soak in the Red Sea — a favourite of Israelis, it calms the soul. A mini-Vegas… with its palm tree-lined roads… (without gambling), it’s R and
R, totally.
