Urban Legend: Barakuru, where Betaal got off Vikram's back!
Bararkuru, about 17 km from Udupi, has more to it than its association with the Vikram and Betaal tales. With around 365 temples, three Jain Basadis and ancient ponds scattered in and around it, the village is a treasure trove of history that reportedly goes as far back as 2,200 years.
The story of King Vikramaditya and Betaal, the wily ghost, has entertained children for generations. But in a quiet corner of Udupi is a village where the tale comes alive. Filled with ancient temples, Barakuru is home to the Simhasana Gudde, or Hill with Throne, located on the right bank of the River Seetha.
Local lore has it that the simhasana refers to King Vikramaditya’s throne that was brought to Barakuru by the “good spirit,” Kundodara and later sank into the ground. Built at the spot is a temple dedicated to Sri Raja Rajeshwari and the villagers still draw a Sri Chakra and offer pooja at the temple every Navarathri in memory of the legendary king and his throne.
Old Devaki Amma, head of the Simhasana Gudde Banni Mahakali Temple, who has all the mythological details stored in her head, also points to a massive monolith some 100 metres from the temple, where the Betaal is said to have stood while telling his tales to King Vikramaditya.
But Bararkuru , situated about 17 km from Udupi, has more to it than its association with the Vikram and Betaal tales. With around 365 temples, three Jain Basadis and ancient ponds scattered in and around it, the village is a treasure trove of history that reportedly goes as far back as 2,200 years.
A visitor to the village is left in doubt about the antiquity of Barakuru as he is greeted by a beautiful Kallu Chappara, a stone slab dating back several centuries, at the bus stand. Pottery pieces dating back to the 12th century BC found at the Simhasana Gudde, reveal it was a famous trade centre once and later became the capital of the Alupa Kings.
The Hoysalas and Vijayanagara rulers, who succeeded them, also found in Barakuru, located on the banks of the vast River Seetha, a safe port city and a centre for trade and commerce. It was only during the rule of Ikkeri Nayakas, Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan that it was overtaken by other centres of trade like Mangaluru.
Though a few temples in the village are still in good condition, most are in ruins as are the Jain Basadis. In fact, some temples and historical structures have vanished over the years. And the remains of a few are seen standing on private properties today, much to the dismay of historians. “There is a Basadi in Barakuru which is completely in ruins and is used to dump bottles by a local trader,” lamented one historian.
Worse, hundreds of inscriptions , which could help in reconstructing the history of the region, are so poorly maintained that some are even used as slabs to wash clothes on. “We have seen the massive slabs carrying the inscriptions being used for washing clothes or in bathrooms and even in cattlesheds. There's also an inscription below the tap at a famous temple in Barakuru,” said Poorna Prajna College principal and history professor, Dr B Jagadish Shetty.
Historian, Dr P.N. Narasimha Moorthy says negligence and ignorance is common in Barakuru. “There are many instances of people finding something unique while digging their land and failing to bring it to the notice of the authorities,” he regretted. “There are not enough ASI men to protect the historical structures here. The people need to take the initiative,” stressed another historian.
Interestingly Barakuru, which was home to several Basadis and a colony of Jain traders and businessmen in the past, has no Jain family left in it today. “There are Basadis but no deities in them. There is also no Jain family left in Barakuru. They reportedly moved out when the Basadis were destroyed during the Keladi Nayaka rule,” recounted historian, Ganesh Pai, revealing that besides the Jains, people of many communities lived in Barakuru, which was a bustling metropolis.
“People belonging to several castes in this region still continue to identify Barakuru as a place of importance for their communities and visit their family deities here to offer pooja every year. But their identity seems linked only to the temples of Barakur and nothing more. They tend to forget the past glory of the region,” he added sadly.
Fortunately, the younger generation seems more aware of its heritage and is keen on protecting it. “It is true we do not know much about Barakuru despite its historical importance. But we have started studying it through websites and articles,” said Mr Santhosh, a young employee of the Barakuru Panchayat, echoing the sentiments of more of his generation, who seem to only now be waking up to the wealth of history in their midst.