Zega x Ginkgo: Where Japan’s Izakaya Soul Finds Home in Hyderabad
Beyond Sushi: Japanese Goodwill Chef Brehadeesh Brings Honest Flavours to Hyderabad

“Kaiseki is not just food. It’s spiritual. It’s like having Prasad—it’s meant for auspicious occasions. A Kaiseki meal celebrates nature." (Photo by arrangerment)
From Pune to Kyoto to Hyderabad, Chef Brehadeesh Kumar’s culinary journey is as layered and artful as a Kaiseki platter. This week, he brings that very journey to life at Zega x Ginkgo, an exclusive three-night Japanese pop-up at Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel, from June 13 to 15, with dinner service only.
The event is a collaboration between Sheraton Hyderabad’s signature restaurant Zega and Ginkgo, the Japanese eatery in Pune co-founded by Chef Brehadeesh and hospitality entrepreneur Siddhi Gokhale. Known for bringing Kaiseki traditions and Izakaya-style plates to India with uncommon authenticity, Ginkgo’s Hyderabad debut is as much about storytelling as it is about food.
“I started learning Japanese back in the 11th and 12th standard. Eventually, I went to IHM Mumbai to study culinary arts, then pursued a BA in Japanese in Pune. But I knew I had to get to Japan.”
He did just that—winning the prestigious MEXT scholarship and spending two years immersed in Japanese culture. His time included an internship at Kikunoi, a three-Michelin-starred ryotei, or traditional Japanese restaurant, where he learned the ethos of Kaiseki cuisine.
“Kaiseki is not just food. It’s spiritual. It’s like having Prasad—it’s meant for auspicious occasions. A Kaiseki meal celebrates nature. If it’s a tomato, it should look, taste, and feel like a tomato. Ingredients are gifts of God,” he explains.
But for the Hyderabad pop-up, Chef Brehadeesh has leaned into Izakaya, the casual, cozy side of Japanese dining. “This is more like the ‘Naan and Pav Bhaji’ of Japan, not the wedding feast. It’s salty, it’s fun, and it’s made to be had with alcohol. That’s what Izakaya is,” he says.
The menu reflects this vibrant energy with small plates that echo Japanese pub culture, where dishes are designed to complement Sake (a Japanese drink) and conversation. “In Japan, when you enter an Izakaya, you pay an entry charge called Otoshi, and they serve you a small dish—like our chakna. That’s how our first course, Morokyu, comes in. It’s miso-dressed cucumber, but we have added a kick using Tobanjan chili miso from Goa’s Brown Koji Boy—a brilliant Indian touch with strict Japanese technique.”
Another highlight is the sashimi course, which includes Hamachi (yellowtail jackfish) cured in kombu seaweed. “The kombu pulls out moisture and gives its umami to the fish. Then there’s avocado and orange wrapped in rice paper with a soy-egg yolk dip—no extra seasoning. Let the ingredients speak.”
The event is more than a pop-up—it’s a mission. Chef Brehadeesh was recently appointed as one of India’s first fully non-Japanese Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassadors. “It’s my responsibility now. Just like how we wouldn’t like someone misrepresenting Hindustani classical music or Indian rituals abroad, I feel the same for Japanese food. There’s so much misinformation.”
And what’s his favourite dish on the menu?
“Somen—hand-pulled noodles, dried, and boiled for just a minute or so. Served cold. Japanese people have them in the summer. It’s light but satisfying. But to make? Definitely ramen—because it takes three days and everything’s from scratch.”
At Ginkgo in Pune, Kaiseki makes a rare appearance. “We do Kaiseki occasionally because it’s very ceremonial. But Izakaya is what people relate to—it’s more everyday, more pocket-friendly. We want college kids, families, everyone to enjoy Japanese food. It shouldn’t just be sushi and California rolls. And Indian food isn’t just curry and mango lassi either.”
With Zega x Ginkgo, Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel offers diners a rare, authentic, and deeply thoughtful glimpse into Japanese culinary philosophy—from the home-style heartiness of Izakaya to the reverent artistry of Kaiseki. It’s a food story you’ll not just taste, but remember.
( Source : Deccan Chronicle )
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