It was a fortuitous meeting of two chefs in 2008 that led to this six restaurant strong, home grown Italia chain in Bengaluru. For years, it has ruled the roost when it comes to Italian dished out simply, pertinently and with a dollop of flourish. The dapper chef, Goutham Balasubramanian, and the minimalistic Jean Michel Jasserand took their association into a golden Tuscan reverie, right here in our city with Toscano in UB City. A typical trattoria invites you in with its casual, informal din, supplemented by the arrival of the menu with its offerings of good, wholesome Italian fare.
Toscano is celebrating its anniversary with style - and a new menu, a labour of love for chefs Jean Michel, Goutham and Abdul. In a scenario where restaurants open, close, go through grandiose makeovers and bring in gastronomical and molecular that sit almost uncomfortably in their geometrical dishes, Toscano is refreshing, rooted in the understanding that simple, wholesome Italian fare, paired with some good wine, can do wonders. The new changes, chef Goutham adds, incorporate 52 percent new Italian trails, while classics like the Caesar salad, margarita pepperoni pizzas, chicken toscano, beef carpaccio, etc still stand strong. “It takes about three months to conceive a menu, and this one took longer. We kept the core and added fresh local produce available throughout the year as it is for six restaurants. I don't want to run into problems, consistency is important,” says Goutham.
This Parisian cafe and wine bar /restaurant /pizzeria has an al fresco dining area, a vintage wine bar and like its founder-owner-chef a French essence, although the dishes are as Italian as they come. Both the chefs have years of experience under their belt and are now set to take the Bengaluru brand to Pune and Chennai next.
“Consistency is the name of the game, I would like one to recall Toscano as a non intimidating space, we don't want to make people uncomfortable,” says the chef. Given their wine list, one wonders if not having hard liquor in the pub city isn't a drawback. We were told that alcohol sales are 18 to 20 per cent, and in peak festive months, 22 percent. “Toscano's recall has to be food, people are inclined towards alcohol as margins are huge, but I believe that slow run of a restaurant has to be 15 years, variety and good food,” says Goutham.
The new menu's showstoppers include the wonderful sweet and salty twist to the water melon and feta salad and hummus and pita, which were alright if a bit dry. The cucumber and salmon was good but would have been better cold. Next came the quinoa and stewed apricot salad with vegetables and feta, stewed barley and a portion of couscous, beets and toasted almonds. We liked it, but would have preferred more lemon and chilli. Chicken and smoked salmon are add ons.
The Insalata-di-mare con asparagi was wine-poached prawns, octopus, squid, and crab. A different spin to poached seafood with its sweet and tang tenets. “We treat the seafood in a very sweet bouillon, a broth made of extra virgin olive oil with a Chenin blanc sweet white wine and lots of herbs.” Peppers added a hint of spice.
The chef’s favourite starter (and ours) was the Herb crust chicken and olive ascolane with fresh, crunchy mixed greens and pickled vegetables. Chicken cooked in saffron stock blended with queen olives and cheddar. The saffron was subtle, golden fried with a creamy filling. Must have.
The gnocchi with duck confit in a white wine butter sauce was our favourite. We've rarely had duck so moist and juicy, the sauce was scrumptious and the gnocchi with spinach was buttery with borlotti beans. The Chicken, tortilla and vegetable broth was again singular flavour, perfect for the rain.
The new menu sees John Dory taking pride of place, Burro di Dory e aranciapan fried polenta crusted John Dory with lemon couscous, spaghetti or vegetables, tomato salsa and orange butter sauce. The fish was flakey although the polenta was too crusty and hard for our liking. The Slow cooked Belgium pork belly served with grilled apple, crispy bacon, potato salad, buttercreamy spinach, and spiced apricot apple chutney was juicy, though we would have liked more jus and flavour to the belly. The potato salad and bacon added flavour as did the sweetness of apple.
The robust BBQ Lamb chops came next, with crispy polenta cake and buttered creamy spinach, grilled vegetables and mint pesto. They were succulent, though the dish, which was a bit dry, could have done with a dash more jus. For dessert, Chef Abdul, who has also been with the Toscano team since 2008 served up the best part of the meal, which even as small eaters, we did true justice to. It was a vibrantly plated Seasonal berry and Almond Clafoutis served with Fruit coulis and ice cream. The berry came in sweet and sour with the creamy pie and a light base.
Our best was the American vanilla cheese cake –with red fruit collies, a wonderful take on the New York cheese cake. The ambience is beautiful and the staff helpful, although prices are on the higher side. But if a Tuscan sunset is what you’re in the mood for, this is the place for you.
Toscano
Toscano
Meal for two: Rs 2,300
2nd Floor, UB City, Vittal Mallya Road, Lavelle Road, Bangalore
Must haves: Chicken ascolane, gnocchi with duck confit, seafood salad, quinoa salad, pork belly, lamb chops, cheese cake and almond clafoutis
