The quintessential Shizusan followed Hiuen-Tsang's inspiration, waddling happily across the Asian continent, chomping on udon and pok choy (we imagine). If Tsang's was a pilgrimage of philosophical proportions, Shizusan's was an ode to the myriad slew of culinary flavours from across South East Asia. Even more uncanny is how the able team at this new restaurant in town - Shizusan has, through their separate travels inadvertently conducted a foodie pilgrimage of their own, be it director, culinary services Paul Kinny's of Bellona Hospitality's pitterpatter onto the streets of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, VP marketing Deepti Dadlani's reminiscence of her Taiwan upbringing that spurred this shophouse, Tanai Shirali, Director operations, the chef and veritable bar brain's Bangkok sojourns, or for that matter owner Romil Ratra's Asian meanderings. They return through taste trails bringing street fare from 18 Century Shop Houses to our table with a flourish. This address in Phoenix Market City by Bellona hospitality, the hospitality arm of PMC is a culmination of the search for Shophouse food that is authentic, simple and flavourful along with some lesser-known dishes.
On the top floor of PMC, overlooking the courtyard, is this expansive place with its Zen-like entrance, modelled after the olden day Shophouse that might have been known for opium and matters of the flesh. The newage variety, however, beckons you beneath its expansive tree of life ceiling and large Oriental-motifed walls, offering tastes that are honest and off the beaten track. The place is helmed by Chef Kinny who was with Taj, and in Dubai, had opened Tendulkars and did a stint with Impressario besides the several other more badges he has under his belt.
First came the Dynamite Shrimp Maki roll that we dipped in wasabi laden soy - fresh, crunchy, delicious. Next came the Enoki Tempura Maki roll with Ponzu mayo, cucumber, black and white sesame seeds and truffle oil, our favourite. The Sambal-spiced satay was very interesting, and mushroomed in perfection. Next was the Edamame truffle dim sum, creamy, subtle perfect pouches even as we eyed the Shitake & Black mushroom dim sum which had the most dreamy filling with a surprisingly wholesome swirl of flavours. The lotus stem, deep-fried in laksa dressing was alright, if somewhat Indian in its flavour and lacking the punch of lemongrass.
Chef Kinny had us taste the Taiwanese Miso milk soup with udon, wakame and tofu. It was subtle and wholesome, a chicken soup for the soul made in real doodh. We spotted a Japense spice bottle, that was perfect as a drizzle. The chef makes the black bean chilli and burnt garlic chilli dip inhouse which perhaps has something to do with its exceptional taste. The Asian watermelon salad came next with radish, feta, toasted almonds, mint, cilantro, chilli-garlic soy dressing, which we eyed with consternation but which surprised us pleasantly all the same. The watermelon imbibed the garlic soy dressing perfect. It was light, summery and interesting.
A Shizusan signature is the Bo La Lot, spiced minced beef wrapped and grilled in betel leaves. Slightly bitter — an acquired taste, perhaps?
The chicken steamed Guo Tie was perfect, steamed and fried in a presentation straight out of Swanlake. Our out-and-out showstopper was the Black Pepper Beef with red onions, scallions, garlic chips. Beautifully juicy, pepper corned to perfection and devoured with a buttery udon in black bean of unmistakable freshness. The Thai Green curry - With pea aubergine and chestnuts was creamy, perfectly spiced and flavoured but the chef's innovative repertoire made happy experimenters of us!
The interactive Tuna buri bop - Gochujang Buri Bop came in an hot iron vessel, with fresh tuna that our hospitable server Sukh added into the Korean hot stone bowl with flourish. It is cooked and finished with a barbeque sauce. Delicious! Gochu is Korean for chillies, jang for paste, and garu for flakes. For dessert it was the Green Tiramisu with sponge cake - average, could have done with a stronger taste of green tea. Our favourite was the Vietnamese Banana Cake with Candied banana, chocolate mousse and a sesame seed crumble that had a caramely punch with mousse that was creamy and delicious.
We loved our mocktails, Ok Lah, Orange juice, orange chunks, kaffir lime that Tanay informed us was inspired by the beetle bars of Bangkok. The Ginsing with Cucumber, ginger, lemongrass was refreshing, and One Night in Bangkok cocktail with White rum, coconut, lime juice, lemongrass, kaffir lime could have been less sweet 'and coconuty for our palate.
There is enough for vegetarians, and even for the Vegan and gluten free searcher, almost inadvertently, as much of the Asian menu incidentally has those specs.
The meal in a bowl has Khao Suey, Ramen, Donburi, Pho and Dan Dan Mian, handpulled noodles spiced with chilli, pepper, scallions and peanuts.
Tanai, also a seasoned chef, was part of the pre opening Wasabi team in Mumbai, and has also trained under Morimoto. The staff is courteous, the dimsum, sushi bars a must-do and the alcove overlooking the courtyard is wonderful. We hope the consistency and attention to detail is maintained, the city doesn't need another lounge bar! For all purposes, this Asian fare is a street prance into hidden flavours, enthused with flavour. Portly fellow noodling happily, no need of a giesha here!
The chicken steamed Guo Tie was perfect, steamed and fried in a presentation straight out of Swanlake. Our out-and-out showstopper was the Black Pepper Beef with red onions, scallions, garlic chips.
Shizusan
Opens on Thursday, May 4.
Address: Phoenix Marketcity Whitefield, Level 2
Tel: +91 80 6726 6655 / 4962 6655
Meal for two: Rs 1800 onwards
Must-haves: Sushis, dimsums, miso soup, watermelon salad, pepper beef, udon in black bean, Korean hot stone rice with tuna, buri bap, Vietnamese banana cake and the Baos
