Mirror mania
From the mystical magic mirror featured in Snow White to the little glass slipper in Cinderella, the hard and brittle substance, typically transparent or translucent, has been an object of fancy and desire among writers, poets, fashionistas and couturiers for the past several centuries. While we may have had quite a time watching them (mirrors) sit on the colourful attires of folk women who love sporting hundreds of tiny mirrors, quite recently they have found a new media a la haute international and national runways of JW Anderson, Loewe, Isabel Marant to Manish Arora, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla and more.
“Couturiers have found in mirrors a design vocabulary that is starkly Indian yet globally attractive. As a mood board, craft repertoire via mirror is immense. It allows an intermingling of a rare kind, which fashionably can be accommodated on a large diversity of costumes, jewellery and accessories, all of which we can see on the fashion ramp,” says designer Pallavi Mohan of Not So Serious. She explains, “Mirror work has always been an integral part of Indian heritage and trousseau since the ancient times.
With bohemian gypsy being the current fashion statement across the globe, this embroidery form that is primarily from the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat has made a major comeback to the fashion runway in a myriad of modern silhouettes. As much as mirrors adorn beautiful ghagra cholis and lehenga sets, we are now having contemporary interpretations of this traditional technique. Be it an elegant neckline work on a crop top with skirt or mirrored jacket with a solid coloured dress, or subtle work on top of a sheer shift dress, one can play around with this versatile art form effectively.”
Nothing helps you stand out in a crowd like some sparkle, but designer Vandy Mehra of SBJ design house cautions against giving passers-by a migraine by being on a mirror-obsession spree, “You need to follow these sartorial safety rules to sparkle: Shiny fabrics or mirror embellished pieces should be treated as if they were bare skin — that is, they have a similar look-at-me quality and should be used in moderation, balanced with pieces that are neither flashy nor sparkly. A mirror-speckled T-shirt should be worn with a knee-length skirt or trousers, not a short skirt; sparkly trousers demand a buttoned-up shirt; a low-cut top with sparkly trousers, or a high-shine T-shirt with a short skirt, has a similarly flashy effect to showing a lot of leg while baring your shoulders.”
Designer Lalit Dalmia agrees, “There is a difference between full-on glitter, which should be kept for the disco hour, and the softer sheen of brocade or a metallic thread, which is more suitable for the daytime. Shine is easily available and suitable for any hour of the day or night but the key is to control your desire and wear it carefully.”
Mirrors are also turning up in unexpected places like statement-making trousers, pretty camisoles, and on wedding gowns. “Denims fused with mirror embroidery especially hot shorts and fun capes with mirror neckline detailing are a good option. Mirrors in newer tones of ferns, peaches, nudes and golds are a must-have this season,” designer Amy Billimoria shares.
That’s not all, as even men embrace mirrors in their attire. Pallavi shares, “Men can spread the hippy vibe by teaming colourful mirrored jackets with kurta chudidaar in earthy shades. For a bold statement, team the traditional Gujarati mirrored flared shirt, kediyu with pencil pants. About its maintenance she adds, “Preserve the mirror work garments in pure mulmul cloth.”