Yes, the six yards of wonder is eternal. But the sari and the blouse are no longer a predictable pair. The humble blouse isn’t just something that you wear with a sari, it’s an inventive fashion separate.
From stretch blouses that looked like mini tees; crop tops worn over heavily embroidered, voluminous lehengas; net bodice blouses, S&M inspired or sharply contoured bralettes; breezy blouses-resembling short kurtis and collared shirts, the traditional blouse has been getting a quirky contemporary uplift.
“The earliest representations of women wearing the blouse can be found in the sculptures from the Mauryan and Sunga periods. It is believed that men and women wore rectangular pieces of fabric, on the lower part of the body and one on the upper part. In Bengal and other parts of India, in the Victorian era, some women did not wear blouses under their saris — they went bare-breasted. This did not suit Victorian society, which had its own ideas of propriety, and blouses increasingly became the norm. And it was Jnanadanandini Tagore, the wife of Satyendranath Tagore who popularised the blouses, jackets and chemises and the modern style of the sari. Over the years, the sari blouse has evolved organically to suit the mood of the moment. The ’30s saw puff-sleeve blouses while the 1940s had square-neck versions. The ’50s were all about the arm-length, closed-neck blouses that were longer than the usual choli and the swinging ’60s saw sleeveless blouses with V-necks and ribbon-knots at the back. The ’70s were simple — colour-matched blouses but the ’80s were steamy — a mix of halter-neck and cap-sleeved blouses. Between then and now, a myriad variety of designs — braided noodle straps, peplums, embellished corset, transparent capes, off the shoulder, one shoulder, key-hole, bikini, etc. — has made blouses a multifaceted accessory that effortlessly gives the sari or the lehenga a new lease of life,” says designer Shasha Gaba.
“The idea behind the changing shape of blouses,” says designer Jyoti Sachdev Iyer, “is to make the sari more wearable every day. The only way to know what will work for you is to try something tassel-free in a shape that you are not used to, in new fabrics that you thought belonged to dresses or shirts. Fashion is about moving into exciting, untried territory but style will ask for a thoughtful process of rejection and selection.”
“Today’s bride has a plethora of options from which to choose, as she plays dress up for her wedding. With innumerable functions in an Indian wedding, brides should look to wear a number of different styles on different days. Each should be unique, be accessorised right and reflect her personality. You can team a long-sleeved silk blouse with your sari or lehenga. Gone are the days when everything had to match. Pick a blouse that contrasts with your garment either in colour or motif. One more interesting variation to try is palazzo pants underneath the sari instead of the traditional skirt. Add structure by teaming your sari with a jacket, as this is sure to make you stand out,” suggests designer Pria Kataria Puri.
