Timelessness Is at the Centre of Our Aesthetic and Practice: Ashdeen Lilaowala

Known for reviving and reimagining the intricate art of Parsi Gara, designer Ashdeen Lilaowala now extends his craft into bridal couture with his capsule collection Once Upon A Dream. In an exclusive conversation with DC, Ashdeen reflects on his journey—from childhood memories of treasured saris to his design education at NID, the balance of innovation with heritage, and his vision of timeless fashion that transcends trends.

What sparked your early fascination with the Parsi Gara?

Still a chiId when I encountered the resplendent Parsi Garas covered in intricate hand embroidery, I watched and learned as the women in my family treasured them, taking them out from the armoire only for special occasions. My mother’s black sari, a family heirloom hand-embroidered with golden yellow flowers by my father’s grandmother, is my earliest memory of the Parsi Gara. My fascination with the Gara only grew as I attended navjotes (initiation into the Parsi faith) and weddings, and saw Parsi aunties dressed in these spectacular, intricately decorated sarees. This fascination was further fortified at the National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad where I studied textile design.

How did growing up in Godrej Baug shape your aesthetic sensibility?

Growing up in Godrej Baug on Mumbai’s Nepean Sea road, I realised that the magic lay in everyday Parsi dressing with its definitive Western influences, inspired by classic European fashion. Think frocks with bows, sleeveless blouses, the way we combine our prints and so on. Our signature style is reflected even in the way our women wear their hair—short and chic, and typically undyed, even if greying. Then there was the inclusion of extras that are typically Parsi, like pearls and lace, and the whole look is deftly pulled together with tiny purses and handkerchiefs. This sensibility lives on in our brand through the saris and garments we create and how we style them for our campaigns.

In what ways did your education at NID influence your design language?

My years studying textile design at the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad helped me to develop a robust design and craft consciousness. At the institute I experienced the tactility of working with cloth, as well as traditional Indian techniques through workshops and visits to craft clusters. Then there were specific faculty, guides and mentors who greatly influenced my design language and my approach to business and life.

How do you balance tradition with innovation in your bridal couture?

At Ashdeen, there are a few non-negotiables when it comes to our practice. For instance, anything we do in the name of Parsi Gara has to be handcrafted and the motifs have to find their inspiration in nature. While keeping some of these core elements intact we have innovated by mindfully combining the craft with other textile traditions of the subcontinent such as kanjeevaram, banarasi silk, leheriya and bandhani. We have worked with silhouettes such as lehengas, blouses, jackets, dupattas, trousers, dresses and more.

What was the core inspiration behind ‘Once Upon A Dream’?

Our core idea with our latest bridal capsule ‘Once Upon A Dream’ was to create a dreamy fairytale-like aesthetic perfect for new age brides who like to look delicate, timeless and ethereal. The tonal details, the soft pastel colour palette, and the romantic, unapologetically feminine vibe of the collection offer enough sparkle for big celebrations while ensuring that the spotlight remains firmly on the bride.

How do you see the modern bride wearing your creations beyond the wedding day?

The timeless craft-forward aesthetic of ‘Once Upon A Dream’ and, honestly, all our collections, ensures that they can be styled in many different ways, mixed and matched and worn well beyond the wedding day. In fact all our pieces are designed as modern heirlooms to be cherished over time. It is one of the core tenets of our brand.

What does timelessness mean to you in the context of fashion?

At Ashdeen, timelessness is at the centre of our aesthetic and practice. We don’t believe in chasing trends but in creating something beautiful by hand that will hold value over time. Our pieces make a statement but in a classic way.

Can you tell us about your new Hyderabad outlet and what makes it special?

Ashdeen at Anahita, our latest outpost in Hyderabad spans about 500 sq feet and is located within the popular multi-branded fashion destination Anahita in Hyderabad’s buzzing Banjara Hills area. Hyderabad-based architect Mouna Reddy designed the space in collaboration with Cherazad Pestonji. Parsis have had a long standing relationship with Hyderabad. They held important positions in the royal court and have settled in the city for centuries. The interiors are an ode to this special bond between the community and the city. It is also a nod to the opulence of the Nizams and the stylish people of Hyderabad. The interior features include vintage chandeliers, gold racks with an antique finish, and old Chinese vases. In keeping with the brand’s tradition, Delhi-based artisans were specially flown down to Hyderabad to paint screens featuring chinoiserie-inspired motifs with gold foil. Handcrafted details adorn the space as a nod to the brand’s ethos.

What sets your designs apart, and what signature elements can we expect in your Bridal Couture 2025 collection?

The signature Ashdeen aesthetic is unapologetically feminine. It’s rooted in tradition yet contemporary in feel. Every piece that we create has been designed as a modern heirloom—as a result they are never trendy but hold value over time. Real handcrafted luxury is at the heart of our brand. These qualities can be seen in our latest bridal capsule as well.

How do you ensure that each client has a personalized experience when working with your atelier?

To ensure that each client has a personalised experience, we invite them into the design process right at the start, by understanding their likes and preferences and ensuring that they are incorporated into the final product. We create samples for them which helps zero in on their preferences. We also add personal elements such as initials upon request.

What’s next for Ashdeen? Any projects on the horizon?

All eyes are on India at the moment. We are finally being seen as innovators, design leaders and a crucial market as opposed to a source for cheap labour. I find it thrilling to be part of the next frontier of the Gara, incorporating new nuances every season, telling new stories, and sparking new conversations. We are collaborating with different artists, brands, and creatives on exciting projects. Watch this space for more.