Prada Wears The Jutti

In its latest runway presentation, Prada unveiled a collection of leather pumps it touted as “original and unconventional.” However, fashion watchers and netizens quickly identified the silhouette, elongated toe, raw leather finish, and earthy tones as a modern reinterpretation of another Indian classic: the Punjabi jutti.

Strikingly similar

Available in three shades of brown and priced at approximately `1.5 lakh, the shoes have drawn criticism from Indian designers and cultural commentators alike for their close resemblance to a design deeply rooted in South Asian heritage. “The Internet is not having it,” said one fashion blogger. “This isn’t homage—it’s high-fashion appropriation.”

Designer and slow fashion advocate Urvashi Kaur, known for her focus on artisan-led design, didn’t mince words: “It’s not innovation when luxury houses echo centuries-old Indian design — it’s appropriation unless credit is given.”

“Our crafts have shaped global aesthetics far longer than they've been acknowledged. It's time our artisans were seen, named, and valued.”

Designer Anand Bhushan notes the growing fatigue within India’s fashion fraternity. “Indian craft has always been vibrant, inspiring and unique. Earlier, when Indians were too busy adapting to Western norms, we dismissed our own styles as ‘too desi.’ But now, we’re finally celebrating our heritage, and it deserves to be seen as luxury.”

He further highlights how India has long served as a global production hub for high-end fashion brands, with artisans contributing to collections in Paris and Milan. “But just because something is produced in India doesn’t mean you can lift an entire culture without context and brand it as your own for millions of dollars,” Bhushan adds.

He points to one of the most striking examples of cultural borrowing: the 2011 Karl Lagerfeld “Paris-Bombay” Métiers d’Art collection for Chanel, which featured sari-draped dresses, Nehru jackets, and ornate Indian-inspired headpieces. While visually stunning, the collection drew sharp criticism for romanticizing and commodifying Indian culture without including its artisans in the spotlight.

Outrage over ‘cultural theft’

The uproar comes shortly after Prada issued a statement acknowledging the Kolhapuri sandal’s Indian origins and expressing willingness for a “meaningful exchange” with Indian artisans. A brand delegation even visited India to discuss potential collaborations with local craftspeople, specifically makers of the Kolhapuri sandal.

Habit Of ‘Borrowing

But this is hardly a one-off. Global fashion houses have routinely mined South Asian design traditions, sometimes without acknowledgement or context, in the name of reinvention.

l American retailer Nordstrom, for instance, once marketed a humble Indian jhola (canvas tote bag) as a “souvenir bag,” priced at nearly Rs 4,000. Produced by Japanese lifestyle brand Puebco, the bags featured pop prints and Hindi script, raising eyebrows for their inflated price and lack of credit to the source of inspiration.

l Balenciaga’s infamous “Barbes East-West Shopper Bag”—a luxury twist on the blue-and-white household plastic tote commonly found in Indian markets. Balenciaga’s version, crafted in calfskin leather, was priced at an eye-watering `1.9 lakh while the original costs only a fraction of that.

l Even couture brands have had their turn. Dior was recently called out for showcasing a gold and ivory houndstooth coat featuring mukaish embroidery, a traditional embellishment technique from Uttar Pradesh, without explicitly crediting its Indian roots.