Jhumkas Take Centre Stage At Ralph Lauren Show

But no credit given to Indian design lineage or the artisans who have historically crafted them

Update: 2026-03-08 17:08 GMT
(Image:DC)

Designer Ralph Lauren showcased the brand’s Autumn/Winter collection at Paris Fashion Week, but the unexpected showstoppers were traditional jhumka-style earrings. From hollow silver spheres to pendant drops and elongated studs adorned with beads, the earrings closely resembled classic Indian jhumkas — a design that has been part of the subcontinent’s jewellery heritage for centuries.

The brand described the pieces as vintage accessories, stating that the collection featured “vintage accessories and select pieces crafted by Native American designers Neil Zarama, Jimmy Begay and TÓPA as part of Ralph Lauren’s Authentic Makers and Artist in Residence programs.”

However, fashion commentators and social media users were quick to point out that the earrings bore a striking resemblance to traditional Indian jhumkas, with no mention of their Indian design lineage or the artisans who have historically crafted them. Several users accused the brand of cultural appropriation and “whitewashing” a traditional Indian design.

Fashion blogger The Edittuer wrote on X that India appeared to be emerging as a major inspiration for global fashion once again. “From Kolhapuri chappals to mukaish coats, genie pants and now jhumkas,” the post read.

Another user commented, “I’m so tired of our fashion and culture being exploited while we’re not allowed into these spaces ourselves.”

Others echoed similar sentiments, criticising Western designers for repackaging traditional designs and monetising them without acknowledging their origins.

Ralph Lauren described the pieces as “vintage accessories and select pieces crafted by Native American designers Neil Zarama, Jimmy Begay and TÓPA as part of Ralph Lauren’s Authentic Makers and Artist in Residence programs.” However, fashion commentators and social media users were quick to point out that the earrings bore a striking resemblance to traditional Indian jhumkas.

No ‘whey’ out for this protein-obsessed gen

From protein paratha to protein coffee and whey kulfi, the macro bite mania and craze for that lean and strong body has gone a bit too far

Rochelle Crasto

Walk into a café in or scroll through a grocery app and you’ll notice a new adjective dominating labels: High-protein. Protein cold brew. Protein parathas. Protein laddoos. Even protein kulfi. What was once gym jargon — grams, macros, gains — has slipped into everyday language. Suddenly, ordering coffee feels like a nutritional decision.

Protein has moved beyond bodybuilding and into branding. It signals discipline, wellness, and productivity. But as the macro takes over menus and marketing, a larger question lingers: is this a genuine nutritional shift, or diet culture in athleisure?

The Macro Makeover

Traditionally, Indian diets have never been protein-deficient in the cultural sense. Lentils, paneer, curd, chickpeas, peanuts — protein has always been present. What’s changed is the framing. A dal-chawal plate is now discussed in terms of “protein balance.” Paneer bhurji is “clean fuel.” Even desserts are reimagined — high-protein kulfi made with whey isolate instead of condensed milk. Social media fitness influencers post macro breakdowns under images of poha and idli, recoding comfort food into performance food.

Sneha Kulkarni (32) homemaker, Pune, “I switched to high-protein atta thinking it’s healthier for my family. Honestly, I don’t know if it makes a big difference.”

Part of this shift stems from the global fitness boom led by figures like Kayla Itsines and amplified by celebrities such as Katrina Kaif, who publicly discuss strength training and protein intake. It is all about being “strong.”

Brands have followed the algorithm. From legacy dairy cooperatives to D2C startups, everyone is reformulating staples. The message is subtle but powerful: your regular snack isn’t enough. It needs fortification.

Women = Primary Target

The protein pivot is marketed as empowerment — especially to urban women. Campaigns feature women lifting weights, running businesses, balancing hormones. Copy promises energy, satiety, muscle tone, and “glow.”

For decades, diet culture told women to shrink. Eat less. Choose low-fat. Now the language has flipped: eat more protein. Build muscle. Take up space. On the surface, this feels revolutionary. Riya Sharma, 24, gym beginner, Bengaluru, “My trainer told me protein is important. It makes me feel strong — but sometimes it also feels like another rule to follow.”

But psychologists argue that the emotional core hasn’t entirely shifted. Instead of striving to be smaller, women are now encouraged to be leaner, tighter, more defined. The anxiety simply wears new vocabulary.

Unlike detox teas or carb bans, protein has legitimacy. Doctors do note that many Indian women under-consume protein, especially vegetarians and those juggling busy urban lives. In that sense, the awareness isn’t misplaced.

Yet the marketing often overshoots reality. Not every office-goer needs a protein cookie at 4 p.m. Not every dessert requires whey isolate.

Marketing + Diet Culture

There are genuine upsides to the protein wave. Strength training among women has risen sharply in metro cities. Gyms and boutique studios are expanding. Conversations around muscle health, bone density, and metabolic strength are finally mainstream. Protein, in moderate and adequate amounts, supports all of that. Dr Anjali Hooda, clinical nutritionist, Gurugram, “Protein is essential, especially for women who are strength training. But more is not always better. Many people don’t realise their requirement depends on body weight and activity level — not trends.”

But the commodification is hard to ignore. High-protein labels often justify higher prices. A ?60 yogurt becomes ?120 when it promises 18 grams of protein. A regular iced coffee transforms into a premium “protein cold brew.” The halo effect is powerful — consumers perceive it as healthier, even if sugar levels remain high.

Nutritionists caution against oversimplification. Protein needs vary by age, activity level, and health condition. More is not always better. Excess supplementation without guidance can strain kidneys in vulnerable individuals, and crowding diets with protein powders may displace fibre-rich whole foods. Ayesha Mehta, 28, marketing executive, Mumbai, “I started adding protein powder to my coffee because Instagram said I wasn’t eating enough. Now I feel guilty if I don’t hit my protein target.”

The Performance of Strength

For many women, lifting heavier weights and eating enough protein genuinely feels empowering — a departure from the era of starvation and shame. But empowerment becomes complicated when it is packaged and sold back to us. When kulfi must justify itself nutritionally, we might ask whether we are nourishing our bodies — or our anxieties. The protein boom isn’t inherently problematic. It has sparked necessary conversations about muscle health, especially for women historically told to avoid it. Yet as the macro moves from gym shaker to grocery shelf to dessert cart, discernment matters. Not everything needs fortifying. Not every snack needs a purpose. Sometimes, kulfi can just be kulfi.


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