Reviving Lost Heritage: Hyderabad Grows Naturally-Coloured Cotton

Hyderabad: Imagine wearing cotton clothes in their natural colour, grown and spun by hand. This is what the Hyderabad-based craft revivalist and designer has been doing for the last one decade to keep the tradition of growing naturally coloured cotton and Khadi weaving alive in the age of BT cotton.

Ramesh Ramanadham has embarked on a journey not just to revive and restore the naturally coloured cotton cultivation but to sustain it as well to support the skilled weavers.

As the naturally-coloured fabric is losing its importance due to different versions of the genetically-modified cotton hitting the market, Ramesh decided to revive the organically grown cotton.

“During our work, we have found that the naturally coloured cotton is missing. That is how we started the journey of growing the naturally coloured cotton. Earlier, Srikakulam district in Andhra Pradesh had its own naturally-coloured cotton varieties. However, over time, many of the varieties have been lost, and we are trying to revive and sustain them,” Ramesh told Deccan Chronicle.

This farmer cultivates two coloured cotton varieties — red and green. “The green variety is American, though Indian green cotton also exists. Earlier, I had a yellow variety, but I lost that seed. Apart from these, India also has blue, pink, and Kala cotton from Gujarat,” he shared.

Unlike ones presently sold in the market, the naturally-coloured cotton does not require colour dyeing, thereby reducing the pollution that emanates from the textile dyeing industry.

According to Ramesh, the present cotton cultivation is seasonal cultivation. “Cotton grows on trees, which grow up to 15 to 18 feet tall. In contrast, today’s cotton crops grow only 3 to 4 feet, and newer hybrids grow up to 5 or 6 feet,” he said.

Unlike commonly grown white cotton, the farmers taking up organic cotton farming could save on investment. However, the yield is lower as it yields 4 to 6.5 quintals per acre, whereas BT cotton yields 10 to 12 quintals per acre, he added.

Ramesh said once a proper business system is established, many people can participate, ensuring the techniques survive for future generations.

Maud Lerayer, an author from France, is documenting the naturally-coloured cotton across the world for her book, was in Hyderabad on Sunday. According to her, she never came across fine hand-spun cotton before even after working across Central America, including Guatemala, Mexico, and Peru.

“This yarn is extremely thin, even, and exquisite, which is rare in hand-spun textiles,” she said. She also aims to connect fashion brands with weavers and help introduce naturally coloured cotton textiles into global markets.