Mylapore still brimming with culture, music and history

Kapaleeswarar, who wears a skull necklace, also called Shiva, Lord of Mylapore, is the consort of Karpagambal who took the form of a peahen, did penance, and married the Lord. Kapaleeswarar’s ancient temple was originally near the sea in what is now known as Santhome. Portuguese invaders razed the Hindu shrine and built a church. Kapali moved further away into the heart of what is now Mylapore - or in Tamil Mylai. Generous Muslim rulers donated land to build a temple tank which still exists. Tamil saint-composer Tirugnanasambandhar sang thevarams and poems on Mylapore, as well as did Appar in seventh century.  In the 20th century we have Papanasam Sivan’s songs.

During British rule, several company paintings were made, depicting temple processions with idols carried on decorated palanquins around the four mada streets which were otherwise well-planned serene agraharam type town houses. The paintings conveyed details of the people thronging, music and nadaswara’ groups, sadir dancers doing graceful steps with their own accompanists standing behind them, flower sellers, men holding lights on poles, priests doling out prasad, vendors and gypsies selling knick-knacks.

When we were young and growing up in adjacent Santhome, we would walk to the temple often. Temple festivals or utsavams were captivating. I was scared of getting lost and would cling to my mother’s saree. I remember for the rishaba vahana at 2 am, we would go to a friend’s sprawling house on west mada street. This is now the Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan. We would go there at 9 pm, sit or stand on the balcony to view the idol from a vantage point. So also the ther or rath. It was exciting and some of us would doze but would be awakened by our elders. Mylapore life was always temple life for us.

During Margazhi season we would be up at 5.30 am and follow Papanasam Sivan’s bhajanai (choral) group. There were some other groups too and the early morning chill was offset by the warmth of the music. On the last day of the bhajanai we would all get pongal prasadam - many a time donated by my parents. The ghee- laden hot salty pongal refreshed us no end.

The kumbhabhishekam or sacred rituals for the kumbhas or pot-like structures atop the gopurams is a grand event held once in 12 years. Yagashalas are built to perform elaborate poojas for the shrine. A renewal of the power of the gods is undertaken, and shuddhi or purification is done on a large scale with pure minds and a belief which has sustained till date. Strict agamic traditions are followed.
In the Brihadeeswara temple, there is a curious history of kumbabhishekams facing severe hurdles. After several incidents, the practice of the ritual stopped. Even in 1997 when it was revived, fire broke out and the rituals sadly ended abruptly. In the history of the Srirangam Ranganatha temple, there was no gopuram for long. This was because of the Lord’s promise to Vibhishana that he would always look to Lanka and protect him.

The temple legend said that building a tall gopuram would result in lanka-dahanam (destruction). In 1983- 84, a tall gopuram was built and immediately, civil war broke out in Lanka, this lasting for more than 25 years. Happily   here in  Mylapore , referred  in history by  Ptolemy, a Greco-Egyptian writer,  as Millarpa,  we have  an unbroken  and hoary  tradition and with the blessings of  Lord  Kapali  and Goddesss Karpagambal  and  with the  blessings of the 63  poet saints or  nayanmars housed  inside in neat  rows, we have the crowning (literally) ritual of abhishekam performed beautifully in the stipulated timeframe and enjoyed by lakhs of devotees with awe and respect for tradition.

(The writer is a musician and musicoligist)