How To Identify A Real KSCI Mysore Silk Saree

Much has been spoken, written and read about Rashmika Mandanna’s stunning look in a red Mysore silk saree with a black-gold border for her wedding reception at Hyderabad recently. While she wore a red sari, her husband Vijay Deverakonda wore an ivory white veshti with silver zari border, as they both complemented each other while maintaining distinct South Indian traditional styles.

Coming back to Rashmika’s Mysore silk saree, which is a part of Karnataka's textile legacy, it was curated by a brand label named Jade featuring handwoven silk from Madhurya Creations. The saree pallu had the Gandabherunda motif woven into the ensemble. The emblem is a mythical two-headed bird and an important part of Karnataka’s history, which is said to symbolise strength, authority, and vigilance.

After the reception, the Mysore silk sari trend went viral on social media, and many vendors and online pages selling the sarees were said to be receiving many orders. This has prompted handloom lovers to come out to explain what a real Mysore silk saree is and its unique distinction, when compared to the similar-looking Binny silks and Mysore crepe silk saris in the market.

For consumers, it is vital to know that an original Mysore silk saree is manufactured only by Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited (KSIC) in the state, which is designated as the exclusive proprietor. Mysore Silk also enjoys stringent legal protection as a Geographical Indication (GI) under India's 1999 GI Act (Application/Registration No. 11) with KSIC.

This status, supplemented by a separate GI for the Mysore Silk logo (No. 532), ensures that only sarees meeting specified criteria, like being made with 100% pure mulberry silk, using high-quality gold-plated silver zari, made under regional production standards, can lawfully carry the Mysore Silk designation.

Another differentiator is that Mysore silk zari is composed of 65% pure silver and approximately 0.65% gold. Because of this, the saree is more expensive than crepe silk sarees. Consumers, while buying, should ensure that the saree is certified exclusively by KSIC and should feature the official KSIC hologram and an embroidered unique code (for traceability).

For a Mysore crepe silk saree, the Silk Mark Certification label should be present, which is issued by the Silk Mark Organisation of India (SMOI), and guarantees the use of 100% natural silk.

A real Mysore silk saree can be distinguished by its lightweight, buttery-smooth texture and a subtle natural sheen that remains for decades. Suguna Rama Sastry, a Carnatic musician from Hyderabad, owns a Mysore silk sari that was gifted to her by her father over 60 years ago. Purchased from the KSCI factory in Mysore, the saree has retained its sheen to this day, and she continues to wear the heriloom saree proudly.

Mysore silk sarees come in traditional patterns, mostly in simple horizontal stripes, panel borders, unlike the heavy Kanjeevarams, which come with different designs and buttas. But over the years, they have customised sarees, adding different patterns to cater to the changing preferences.

Another feature of the Mysore silk sarees is that they weigh around 400 to 500 grams based on the zari. Commonly found in 90 GSM or 120 GSM variants, they are they are light weight and make a very comfortable and fluid drape. Also, Mysore silk sarees are sold only through KSIC stores in Mysore, Bengaluru, and places where they have the KSCI Mysore Silk outlets.

As per the KSCI website, to identify if that yarn is pure Mysore silk, a 'Burning Test' is conducted. Take out a small piece of thread from both directions and burn it. Pure silk will give the smell of burning hair and will leave a black residue, which can be easily crushed to powder by the finger, which is another sign of its purity.

According to silk purist, apparel and textile designer Harshavardhan Rai from Mumbai, what Rashmika Mandanna was wearing was not a Mysore silk saree, but a crepe silk saree. And that many brands falsely promote crepe silks, calling them Mysore silk or Mysore crepe silk. 

Knowing how to spot genuine Mysore silk helps you buy a saree that truly represents its heritage. With their distinct style, drape, and light feel, Mysore silk sarees remain a treasured symbol of handloom tradition and understated luxury.