India Has Lot of Forgotten Recipes, Says Chef Suraj Thapa

For Chef Suraj Thapa, food has never been just about recipes. Every dish carries memories of childhood, family and a culture that quietly became his own.

At Barbeque Nation’s Royal Bengal Table pop-up in Hyderabad, the MasterChef India Season 8 third runner-up is serving dishes that are deeply personal. From smoky begun varta to slow-cooked Golbari Kosha Mangsho, every recipe has a story behind it. The week-long festival at the Kukatpally outlet celebrates Bengal’s lesser-known culinary traditions through heirloom recipes that rarely find space on restaurant menus.

Suraj’s own journey explains why.

“I am born Nepali but I am more raised like a Bengali,” he begins, before adding, “I always say I am Nepali by birth but a Bengali by vocation.”

Growing up in Chalsa, a small town where Bengali and Nepali communities lived side by side, he was immersed in Bengali food from an early age.

“Bengali culture always inspired me. Most of my friends were Bengali and even at home we cooked Bengali food along with Nepali food. My parents, my sister and I can all speak fluent Bengali.” That upbringing shaped not only his palate but also his identity as a chef.

Long before MasterChef India introduced him to the country, Suraj had another passion. “I loved painting and art since childhood. I still have many paintings at home. During MasterChef, I always wanted to plate my dishes differently. I would take inspiration from artists, chefs and even Pinterest. I never wanted to do the regular thing.”

His artistic instincts became one of his signatures on the show, but he says the competition taught him another lesson that continues to influence his work every day.

“I still remember missing the immunity pin challenge by just 12 or 15 seconds. Chef Ranveer told me that just those few seconds made all the difference. That day I understood the value of time,” he says.

Today, whether he is teaching students or running his bakery, he constantly reminds them that consistency and time management matter as much as creativity.

Many dishes on the Royal Bengal Table menu are drawn directly from his childhood memories.

One of the closest to his heart is Begun Varta. “In our home we would roast vegetables over a chulha, mash them with mustard oil and onions and make varta. It is one of the most comforting foods I know.”

Another favourite is Macher Lej Varta. “When my father bought whole fish, we always kept the tail aside because it had more bones. We fried it and made varta from it. Those are memories I wanted people to experience.”

Even the raw mango dishes on the menu carry nostalgic value. “We had mango trees at home. Every summer we made Aam Pora Sharbat using charred raw mangoes. We also used the same smoky mango in cooking along with kasundi. That’s how Aam Pora Murgi became part of this menu.”

Unlike familiar Bengali restaurant staples, Suraj deliberately chose dishes that are becoming increasingly difficult to find. “I wanted to bring recipes that you usually don’t see in restaurants. You might find them in old homes or traditional eateries in Kolkata, but not in regular menus.”

If someone asked him to pick just three dishes, he laughs at the impossibility. “I would actually ask people to try everything.”

Still, he eventually gives in.

“Definitely try Mishti Doi because once people taste it, they really fall in love with it. Then there is Baked Rosogolla, where we combine rabri with rosogolla before baking it.”

For meat lovers, his recommendations are immediate. “You should try the Golbari-style Kosha Mangsho. The dark colour comes from slow roasting over a long period. And if you enjoy traditional Kolkata street food, don't miss the Mutton Chorbi Ghugni Baghbazar style.”

Beyond the pop-up, Suraj dreams of taking regional Indian cuisines even further. “I want my own signature restaurant someday and I want to grow Bunny’s Bakery. But I also want to travel across India and learn from villages and remote regions. We don’t always have to go abroad to discover great cooking techniques. India itself has so many forgotten recipes and traditions.”

For now, Hyderabad gets a taste of that journey. The Royal Bengal Table is more than a regional food festival. It is a chef’s attempt to preserve memories, celebrate forgotten flavours and invite diners to experience Bengal beyond its most famous dishes.