Handloom Doesn't Need Revival, It Needs Recognition

As conversations around sustainability and conscious fashion gather momentum, India’s handloom sector is often spoken of as something that needs to be preserved from disappearing. Anindita Sardar, Head of Design at Taneira, believes that assumption itself needs to change.

Speaking on the occasion of World Handloom Day, Sardar argues that handloom is far from being a relic of the past. Instead, she sees it as the very foundation of fashion, one that has continuously evolved with time while remaining rooted in India’s cultural identity.

“Fashion and handloom go hand in hand,” she says. “We have divided them in our minds. Many fashionable garments begin with fabrics developed on a loom. Sometimes it is the handloom that creates the base textile which eventually becomes something contemporary and differentiated.”

According to Anindita, consumers often judge fashion only by the finished product while overlooking the craftsmanship behind the fabric itself. “We forget that the root of any product is the loom, whether it is a handloom or a power loom. That foundation cannot be denied,” she says.

She believes the perception that handloom belongs only to heritage wardrobes or ceremonial occasions has restricted its appeal among younger consumers. “We have decided that if it is handloom, it has to be expensive, an heirloom and very classy. But everything can be done through handloom. We simply need to broaden our lens. Handloom can create products that fit into fast fashion too.”

For Anindita, the conversation around conscious consumption is also not new to India. She says sustainability has long been woven into everyday Indian life, even before it became a global buzzword.

“I wouldn’t say conscious buying is happening only now. We have always practised it. Upcycling and recycling have always been part of our lives. We simply never gave them fashionable names,” she says.

Recalling growing up in India, she points to hand-me-down clothes and shared school books as examples of a culture that naturally valued reuse over waste. “It is in our DNA. Today’s lifestyle has only made people more aware of something that was already part of our culture.”

Anindita also highlights how India’s textile traditions have been shaped through centuries of migration and cultural exchange. Techniques may travel across borders, she says, but every region gives them a unique visual identity.

“The technique can remain the same, but the design language changes. Motifs evolve from what people see around them every day. Migration has helped techniques evolve, while local cultures have transformed their expression.”

Whether it is Pochampally Ikat in Andhra Pradesh or Ikat traditions in Odisha and Gujarat, she says each region has developed its own distinctive vocabulary despite sharing similar weaving methods.

When asked if certain weaving traditions deserve greater recognition, Anindita avoids ranking one craft over another.

“Even an ₹800 saree deserves the same respect as a Banarasi or Kanchipuram saree worth one lakh rupees. The effort and diligence are the same. What changes is the material and the process, not the skill or dedication of the artisan.”

Looking ahead, she is optimistic about the global future of Indian textiles.

“India is being regarded highly today when it comes to fashion and textiles. Indian designers and brands are taking our crafts to international markets. Appreciation for Indian fabrics is returning, and I believe the future of Indian handlooms is extremely bright.”

Perhaps her strongest message comes when the discussion turns to preserving traditional crafts.

“I would be very honest. Indian crafts and Indian handlooms do not require revival. They are already there,” she says, adding, “What they need is greater visibility. We have forgotten something that India is incredibly strong at.”

Calling India unmatched in the diversity of its weaving traditions, Anindita says no other country possesses such an extensive network of handloom clusters and artisan communities.

“It is part of our everyday lives. The ceramic cup with a hand-painted motif, the cushion cover in our homes, the fabrics we wear. We may not always realise it, but handloom and craft are already woven into the lifestyle of every Indian.”

For Anindita, the future of Indian handloom lies not in reinventing it, but in helping more people recognise the extraordinary legacy that already exists.