Time to patch up

Patchwork has come a long way. Splicing and dicing of furs, denims and knitwear motifs show us just how powerful the juxtaposition of colours, textures and fabrics can be. From mixed vintage fabrics to a stacking of summer prints, this season’s take on the trend is modern and sexy with a laid-back vibe. Some designers have stayed traditional with mismatched pieces of wool arbitrarily sewn together, while others have streamlined the trend in blocks of suede and supple leather.

Designer Cameron Kham shares, “It is a technique of sewing together pieces of matched, mismatched tissues/patches to create a final result and bring out a unique assembly of garment. It’s a mix of different fabrics and various colours. Patchwork has been more popular on the home décor front with vivid patterns available on blankets, pillows, cushions covers, etc. Back in the 70s, hippies and bohemians adopted this style. However, this season designers and catwalks confirm its comeback.”

Designer Gautam Gupta agrees, “Patchwork is one of the most important and crucial techniques used in designing garments as there are a lot of things that cannot be made just by hand and machines. The quality of patchwork needs to be good and one should see the strength and finishing as sometimes a loose or unfinished patchwork can lead to be a major fashion faux pas. Patchwork not only gives a garment a more customised look, but it is a highly versatile trend as well.”

Elaborate patchwork made out of multiple prints, the combination of metallic patchwork with gold chain metal fringe followed by patchwork from metallic embroidered panels are huge this season, according to designer Swapnil Shinde. He says, “The trend is pretty popular when it comes to western ensembles but we Indians have been embracing the trend since long. However, we have recently spotted several designers using it extensively in modern ways to give interesting twists to traditional attires. Patchwork cholis have been a classic trend where different coloured Banaras brocades are teamed together to make a blouse, and patchwork anarkalis are also gaining momentum at the moment.”

Designer Nachiket Barve adds, “Since the inception of three-dimensional embroidery, the trend has really picked up well. A lot of embroideries are first done on raw fabrics and then either patched or applique on yokes, jackets, blouses and even lehengas. The fabric has joints and therefore is naturally delicate. I would suggest, wear it with care and respect the garment. It is not something I would recommend for adventure sports. Dry clean with care and layer over a solid foundation garment.” About whether patchworks done on heavier fabrics fare better than those done on a lighter counterpart, he says, “Weight is irrelevant. Chiffon, lace, net, organza, tulle and satin can be patched too.”

But this is a style that should be worn with caution. Too much clashing in one look can be sartorial overkill. “Patchwork can look loud and if not teamed correctly can make the entire look go wrong,” designer Swatee Singh cautions and adds, “To begin with, try something simple. Pair your patchwork piece with a basic outfit. Patchwork prints are about bringing several pieces of print or clean fabrics together into one outfit, making it look eye-catching, bold and eclectic. So it is always nicer to pair it with a basic colour like black, nude or denims to tone it down. Secondly, know your body type. Look for a print according to your body proportion with horizontal, vertical, boxed or panelled patchwork in prints and colours. It’s all about creating a delusional silhouette for the body, so find pieces that will suit your body shape. Patchwork is also a natural extension of the colour blocking trend. So you can always try colour blocking. Bold colour stripes are a beautiful side to patchwork for a beginner.”