Free as a bird in Christiania

Freetown, as the name suggests, is a living embodiment of the liberal, autonomous culture followed by its residents. Their refusal to be considered part of the European Union (EU) is evident as soon as you walk into the neighbourhood: An archway with a bold “Christiania” emblazoned on it greets you. When you exit, you’ll see a sign stating “You are now entering the EU”. That shows you how serious the residents are about their “free” status. They even have their own flag!

Freetown’s origins are as interesting as the locality itself. As per the official story, there was an exhibition held at Charlottenborg in 1970, where all kinds of hippies made their way to sell various goods and exhibit art, perform plays etc. Along with the exhibition, an alternative newspaper was also printed called Hovedbladet.

Among the many issues it discussed was that of an abandoned military barrack in Badsmandsstraedes Kaserne, and suggested that it might serve as a home for the numerous youngsters unable to find accommodation elsewhere. The abandoned military base then saw a huge influx of people, who wanted to create an alternative lifestyle. Thus was Christiania born.

Today, it’s a colourful lifestyle that greets the visitor to Freetown Christiania. The hippie surroundings are quite a change from the prim city life of Copenhagen. There’s Pusher Street, where drugs are peddled out in the open! Photography is prohibited here for obvious reasons. Despite the liberated lifestyle, however, hard drugs, violence, theft etc. are a strict no-no.

Graffiti and murals adorn the walls in Freetown Christiania, contributing to its colourful look. The residents have converted army barracks, storerooms, laboratories, armament rooms into their homes most creatively. The seemingly self-sufficient dwellings also include shops selling clothes, jewellery and other trinkets.

The Qsmedian, an ironworks run by three women is a good source for creative furniture in cast iron and glass, and also for knick-knacks. There are other shops too, where you can pick up souvenirs like a fridge magnet of the flag, for about 10 Danish Kroner. While the Kroner is accepted here, they also have a local currency, called “Lon”.

For the party-minded, Freetown Christiania has lots of options. With names like ALIS in Wonderland, The Opera, The Energy Workshop, the clubbing scene is a happening one. One such eclectic hangout is The Grey Hall, a serious name in the Danish Music industry, a hall with a capacity of 1,500 which has played host to legends like Bob Dylan, Metallica, Rage Against the Machine. If you play an instrument, hang around the Christiania Jazzclub and after the band has finished for the night, you can jam with them till the early morning hours.

Cafes and restaurants abound. Manefiskeren or Moonfisher stands out with its “The Safest Café” poster at the entrance! They turned the fact that it was raided by police officials for drug trafficking some 6,000 times since 2004 into a marketing advantage by calling their café the safest! Yet another place you could stop off for a bite is Spiseloppen. Situated in an uninviting-graffiti-splattered warehouse building, the food at Spiseloppen is of five-star quality! The menu changes every day and the use of organic and local produce is the highlight. The cakes at Sunshine Bakery on Pusher Street are a musttry, as is the organic beer at Café Nemoland.

A unique aspect about Freetown is the a ban on automobiles, so the residents use sturdy and eco-friendly tricycles, which are today exported not just to the rest of Europe, but also to Japan, Australia and the US.

The easiest way to reach Christiania is by the Metro (a 500-metre walk from the Christianshaven station) or by Bus No. 66. Today Christiania has more than a million visitors yearly and is the third greatest tourist attraction in Denmark. If you do happen to be in Copenhagen, don’t give it a miss.