Sao Paulo: If football is your religion, you shouldn’t miss a pilgrimage to a museum dedicated to the sport in Pacaembu Stadium in the heart of Sao Paulo. The stunning art deco building, modelled on Berlin’s Olympic Stadium, houses a treasure trove of photographs, videos, books and other materials related to football.
The museum has been attracting droves of fans from different countries in the run-up to the World Cup. A sprawling square, named after Charles Miller, leads to the Pacaembu Stadium. Miller, an Anglo-Brazilian, was credited to have introduced football in the South American country.
Born to an English father and a Brazilian mother, Miller had his schooling in Southampton. Upon his return to Brazil in 1894, he carried with him a couple of footballs and the FA rule book. Miller created a division for football in Sao Paulo Athletic Club which had been established by British expatriates to play cricket. In 1895, he organised the first ever football match in Brazil between Sao Paulo’s railway and gas companies. Miller also set up the country’s first league for five teams. Needless to say the small spark lit by the young man caught on like wildfire.
At the ticket counter, a group of Brazilian school children indulged in a friendly shouting contest with Colombian fans on who would win the 20th World Cup. Huge walls comprising club and country emblems greet visitors at the entrance. 3D holograms of legendary Brazilian players and a documentary on the Brazilian football transport one back in history. Listening to Brazil’s highs in international football through the voices of legendary commentators is another highlight.
The best section of the museum houses an eclectic collection of black and white photographs that explain the evolution of the game from the time of Miller. The evocative photos speak a thousand words. Virtual games, balls and shoes used from the early 20th century are some of the usual stuff you would find in a museum. As if to reinforce the joy in failure, there is a gigantic screen that repeatedly shows Brazil’s loss at the hands of Uruguay in the 1950 World Cup. Photographic and video highlights of all World Cups with important contemporary events from other spheres grab the attention of visitors, irrespective of age.
An open air theatre capturing the chanting of fans belonging to all major Brazilian clubs brings out the tribal allegiances of club football in all their glory and fury. One can watch the match at the quaint little stadium, owned by Sao Paulo municipality, from the museum balcony. A well-stocked football library which is open to all visitors gives a sense of completeness to the museum. A merchandise shop selling Nike and Adidas kit near the exit door is a reminder of the globalised consumerist world we live in now. The past and the present coexist peacefully in this wonderful place.
