If Indian food was already on the world map, this chef from Kolkata brought it into the hallowed halls of an epicurean Nobel, or close. Gaggan Anand’s Gaggan in Bangkok’s CBD is the only Indian restaurant featured in the top 50 list of best restaurants in the world. And that’s a first for our “bawarchi” business! Gaggan is effervescent and always on the move, learning and enriching.
Today, Gaggans in Bangkok serves Indian food with epicurean class. And it all started when Gaggan, an ardent believer of the El Bulli concept, called El Bulli in the hope of doing an internship with the best restaurant in the world. But it also goes further — when as a young, starry-eyed youth in his 20s, he travelled with former President of India Dr APJ Abdul Kalam. “It was inspirational — I was cooking and travelling with the President with my recipes. He is a simple and humble man who would get up at 6 am and I would make a simple upma and chutney. I remember, he would salute me for the breakfast, it is a moment that will stay with me forever. He is so sweet and humble while being close to genius. Once, the lady secretary at the governor’s house in Mizoram called me and I was asked to create a meal for him, and that’s when I started cooking and travelling with him,” adds Gaggan.
“It’s motivational cooking for dignitaries, but it really does not have to be someone of status, it can be anyone who truly appreciates good wholesome food,” says the chef whose delicate play has created foie gras on papdi with red onion chutney or a more wholesome Norwegian scallops, Iberian ham and Thai Mahachanok mangoes. Kokam nectar, mustard ice-cream or even pork neck cooked in a Goan vindaloo reduction, each dish is a colourful rendition of an artist and with flavours that keep you piqued in curiosity while satiating with its impeccable taste. Ask him of his Indian menu that has many gourmet touches, and he explains, “My food is typically Indian, but Indian reinvented. For instance, our starter spread has papdi chat, channa chur, golgappa and samosa — I have interpreted it but they remain classic in essence. The golgappa is in a chocolate shell with spiced water, but it’s a truffle of golgappa. I have two menus, one as 1,800 Baht or $60. Can you imagine that? The world’s best is also the cheapest on the list?” Gaggan asks.
El Bulli for Gaggan was a story of innumerable calls, to get an English speaking person. “I requested that I wanted to decode Indian cuisine and they answered — it’s all on the YouTube — I insisted that I wanted to be in the Vatican of the epicurean world as I consider El Bulli to be my religion, they finally agreed and I had a half-an-hour interview and within a matter of weeks, I was there to absorb the tenets of food. I interned with the research team under famed Ferran Adria of Catalonia. After that, sadly, El Bulli shut down — I felt that I had been given a chance by God and I am ever thankful for it,” he explains.
The philosophy of El Bulli for Gaggan is about how close art and cooking are. “It is the greatest form of art. Before I was an unplanned chef and today, after the learning, I think a lot and try to understand the dish and illustrate it in my mind, I understand how important science is as a catalyst,” says the man known for sourcing ingredients like lotus stem, karela, shakarkandi and while he might use fois gras and truffles, and people question its relevance to Indian cuisine, he explains, “It’s my interpretation of elements. Being among the top 50 is the biggest achievement and if I can inspire other chefs to create Indian food, then that’s wonderful. My partner has been behind me. My love is in this restaurant, I don’t believe in branching out. Sometimes, you have the best people working with you and no luck. I consider myself among the lucky ones that has a ‘moneyball’ team,” says Gaggan.
Gaggan has also cooked for former US President Bill Clinton (he was a part of an entourage). Ask him about it, and he laughs, “Yes, it was good, but it’s not my best memory. The salute by Abdul Kalam is my best memory,” he adds.
Cooking for dignitaries is a common occurrence, and he recalls cooking for the Thai king’s daughter-in-law, who after the meal told him, “I’m fat because of you.”
Putting India on the niche world map, he says, “I want people to know that India is not just a curry house.”
The chef travels for workshops, trying to increase his already burgeoning knowledge of cuisine but to him Spain and Japan are the world’s best cuisine centres.
“The techniques used, ingredients and atmosphere are beyond compare. Japan has the youngest soil on earth, volcanic soil, and that’s the reason for its quality ingredients,” adds the maestro who has had offers to open Gaggan in Los Angeles, New York, London, Japan, Tokyo and many other places.
He married a Thai Chinese, Pui, who fortunately loves India more than he does! So the couple travel all over the country, and this year Nepal is on their list.
“I have been booked for events all over. I like coming back to India to revisit cuisine, taste street food. For me, food is the hero, not the chef.” And we say encore!
