The road that leads to the pre-Columbian, Mayan ruins of Tazumal in El Salvador is almost surreal. Not because it is so much the stereotypical, congested road characteristic of any semi-urban small town in a developing country, but because it is not in the vast, open fields or the winding mountain routes that one hopes would lead the travelling soul to something as romantic as ancient Mayan ruins.
After travelling for about an hour from San Salvador, the capital, we had veered to the left in response to the boldly-painted directions to the Mayan site. And now, after trailing behind two-wheelers and cars that had seen better days, jostling past fruit stalls that spilled out on to the road from their space on the pavement, we had arrived at Tazumal, located in Chalchuapa. A massive stone structure rose incongruously from where the road split to the right and left. This was it.
Tazumal is one of the oldest archaeological parks in Central America and it was the first one to be consecrated thus, in El Salvador. While most Mayan trail-following backpackers give it a miss in favour of the bigger and more ornate Mayan sites in neighbouring Guatemala or Honduras, Tazumal too has much to offer.
The artefacts found here during excavations have been dated to the 8th century AD and are, therefore, amongst the oldest man-made objects found in the MesoAmerican region. Casting covetous glances at the wares in the stalls lining the streets, we hasten towards the entrance, promising ourselves that we will pick up a souvenir or two when we return.
Inside the grounds, we clamp down on our urge to explore the structure in favour of visiting the tiny little museum. A little background and context would only enhance our visit. Black and white images of excavations from the 1940s welcome us into the cool and quiet building. From incense holders to indigenous polychrome pottery, and sculptures and engravings, the museum has preserved history diligently in glass enclosures.
Back outside, the sun lashes us like a cheerful whip. We make our way to the first of the dominant structures here — the main pyramid that rises to 75 feet. Despite its size, the pyramid is unadorned. Archaeologists working on the site have identified the structure to be a platform, part of a series of platforms that together made up a massive radial temple. Excavations that uncovered artefacts that were most probably used for ceremonial offerings, confirm this hypothesis.
We walk around the grassy mounds that surround the structure and then gingerly make our way down to the uncovered “ball court”. Though not as expansive as the ball courts at some of the more famous Mayan sites, Tazumal’s court is fairly big. It is at courts like these, that an ancient game of ball, the precursor to the modern game of football was first played. However, the losing team of that age certainly did not have it easy. They were mostly sacrificed to the Gods. All the more reason to work on your game.
Within the grounds and to the back of the main pyramid at Tazumal, is an Indigo pit where the leaves of the Indigo plant were soaked in water and then fermented to obtain the rich hue. This was then used as a dye for clothes and pottery. Fabric dyed with natural Indigo continues to be a popular local handicraft even today.
As we walk back from the ruins sated yet wondering if the enigma around the site will ever truly be uncovered, we run into one last surprise. A bust of the original backpacker and revolutionary, Che Guevara, who halted here during the famous trip he chronicled in the Motorcycle Diaries. Che on one side and the ruins at our back, we pose for one last time and then bid goodbye to the site.
