It may have taken its own time, but my wish to experience Ubud ,the place that prominently figured in Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat Pray Love finally came true.The writer had described the place as the “Last Paradise on Earth” and in my view, she hadn’t exaggerated at all.
Often called “The Artist’s Town” and “Creative Heart of the Island”, Ubud is a platform for the creative efforts of its simple people. The moment I reached this tiny town, I knew tourists had discovered it long ago. Elegant five-star hotels and sprawling mansions on its outskirts overlooking the most prized views in Bali were a testimony to that.
Way back in the 1930s, it was among the most chic bohemian destinations in the world, right from Charlie Chaplin, Noel Coward and Margaret Mead to Barbara Hutton, creative minds had frequented this crucible of art in Bali.
Sometime in 1927, a German artist called Walter Spies arrived at Ubud and was suitably enchanted to make it his home for the next 14 years. He is believed to have discovered the creative potential of Ubud and helped to place it on the bucket list of travellers.
However, over the years, what was a haven for scruffy backpackers, cosmic seekers, artists and bohemians has now transformed into a hot spot for literati, glitterati, art collectors and connoisseurs. Ubud has also been the abode of royalty for more than a century and therefore has several palaces. In fact, it is also known as the “Royal Town”.
The Artist’s Town
The entire road from Denpasar to Ubud is lined with artisan villages. Batubalan village is known for its stone-carving and Celuk is famous for jewellery. Then there is Batuan, best known for its paintings. Apart from traditional Balinese art forms, the place also boasts of international influences thanks to the many well-known artists who flocked to the place in 1930s from different parts of the world.
My guide, Wayan, informed me that Bali wasn’t always an artists’ village. It was earlier known as an important source of medicinal herbs and plants. From there we made our way to Batubulan. Most of the stone sculptures seen in Balinese temples are supplied from this village.They also contribute a large number of installations to museums, palaces, restaurants and city squares.
Apart from stone carvings, the place is also known for its Barong dancers, another attraction that has tourists flocking in. Next stop, Batuan offered a vibrant depiction of epics and Buddha’s teachings hanging on kitschy walls.
The village, which along with Ubud had been hailed as a centre for art way back in the 1930s, today caters to demands from the Western markets as well. It now has entire families involved in creative pursuits. While one member of the family finishes the outlines of a work, another one fills in the colours.
A little away, Celuk village turned out to be a treasure trove of jewellery.
Shopping galore:
If you’re looking to pick up knick-knacks and gift items, there’s a whole range to choose from traditional Balinese paintings, woodcarvings, lovely woven baskets and batik prints are a few options. It doesn’t come as a surprise that most faces in the crowded marketplace were foreign.
“The woven baskets come from Sukawati, another village close by,” said my guide Wayan as I ran my fingers over an intricately woven handbag. “The Geringsing cloth comes from Tenganan. That is the only place where it is made. Those ‘Lontars’ come from there, too,” he adds.
Lontar, I discovered, is a beautiful manuscript, narrating stories through exquisite paintings and text. Drawn on dried palm leaves, it is a true collector’s item. Also, when you’re here, make sure you experience two things, the Barong dance and Balinese Spa.
