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The spud is a stud

The potato is a culinary treasure house of texture and a magical accompaniment to anything on the plate.

Cycling along the Greifensee lake in Fallanden had a certain charm about it and even though the sun was out smiling his warm rays right into our hearts, there was a distinct nip in the air. After a wonderful afternoon in the countryside we made our way back to our friend’s beautiful cottage. The garden had wild cherry and apricot trees and beautiful flowerbeds of tulips, violets and azaleas.

The day before’s warm-sour cherry tart was still playing on my mind and I was secretly hoping there was a piece left over to replay the flavours. By now our hosts, Barbara and Urs, had already stuck the logs into the central heater making the cottage cozy and inviting. As we took off our gloves and caps, I couldn’t help but notice the warm notes that were wafting ever so teasingly through the house. I made a beeline for the kitchen with the olfactory sense of a wild boar sniffing out truffles. Dinner was being readied and there was Roesti on the stove.

The evening sky was aglow with the fading light, the raclette grill was being warmed up for what was going to be another beautiful evening.

The cold weather always makes you yearn for comfort and warmth and there is no better way to put a blanket around your soul than to have a potato and cheese dinner.

To me, a potato in any sense, is a friend who will always have your back. A crisp chip, a velvety soup, a comforting stew, a spicy bhaji, a soft gnocchi or a hot baked spud with sour cream will always say ‘I love you’.

But the humble potato as many have called it, isn’t that humble, I would think. From anchovies to mushrooms, cream to salmon and mustard to fenugreek, from chicory to paprika, parsley to pork and juniper to horseradish, the potato will go out with just about anyone who cares for a date. Isn’t that promiscuity at its best?

Its sex appeal lies in the fact that it is a culinary treasure house of texture and a magical accompaniment to anything on the plate. The spud is a stud.

My musings about the potato’s flirtatious habit were broken by the sound of the heavy Roesti plate landing on the table. There was a lovely velvety chicken stew, a fresh crisp salad, bread and Alpine butter. And not to miss the raclette grill with its lovely sausages, salami and cheese — but I’ll leave that for another day.

It’s been a bit nippy here as well, what with Phai lin, Helen and Lehar making their wintry presence felt and I think it’s time we pulled the blanket on. Put that pan on the stove and let’s potato ourselves.

Spanish Potato fritters

These are wonderful light party starters and a great hit with mildly sweet wines.

Ingredients:

  • Potatoes — peeled and cut long and slender 1/2 kg
  • Refined flour 1 tbsp
  • Eggs 2 whole and white of one
  • Any spicy sausage chopped fine 100 gm
  • Salt to taste
  • Fresh ground black pepper to taste
  • Oil to fry

Method:

  • Boil the potatoes in salted water. Drain and cover with a cloth while allowing them to dry out.
  • Mash in a bowl and add the refined flour and season with the pepper.
  • Mix in the two yolks and the chopped spicy sausage.
  • Begin to heat oil in a kadhai or saucepan on low heat.
  • Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl to form soft peaks and fold into the mashed potatoes a little at a time.
  • Lower heaped teaspoons of the mixture into the oil in small batches. Fry each batch for about 3-4 minutes, turning them every once in a while.
  • Remove each batch onto an absorbent kitchen paper. Keep warm in a low oven till all batches are done.
  • Serve hot with salt or spicy sauce or both!

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Potato Roesti

Most Roesti recipes will tell you that the potatoes need to be cooked a day in advance

(Makes enough for 6 to 8 people)

Ingredients:

  • Potatoes 1 kg
  • Butter about 3-4 tbsp
  • Salt to taste
  • Milk 2 tbsp

Method:

  • Boil the potatoes with their jackets on, a day prior to preparation. Make sure they are not completely done, there should be a little left to cook.
  • Barbara would leave the entire container of boiled potatoes outside the kitchen door overnight to allow the potatoes to cool naturally. (Not advisable here unless the ambient temperature is below 10C)
  • Peel and grate or rough mash using the largest holes in the grater. Add the milk to the potatoes.
  • Heat the butter in a non-stick pan and add the potatoes and press together using a spatula to make it like a compact loaf. Turn down the heat when you hear the potatoes sizzle. Cook on low and steady heat for at least 20 minutes. Flip onto a plate and slide back to cook the other side till crisp.
  • Roesti tastes wonderful with crisp bacon, sloppy fried onions, a good melting cheese like a Gruyere or Cheddar and just about any other vivacious saucy number that you have in the larder.
( Source : chef mandaar )
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