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Ode to Chennai

Bryan Dalton (left) with Anandaroopa
Bryan Dalton (left) with Anandaroopa

The list below has seeped deep into our five senses… if only we could mix the spices of tolerance and generosity to bottle them into a perfume called Chennai.

*Ubiquitous reminders of God: temples, mosques, churches, roadside poojas etc.

*Busting blooms of pink/white flowers from plumeria trees during the hot summer months.

*Sari-clad ladies in trainers power walking in our neighborhood creating a human traffic jam.

*Sunday brunch at the Shore temples in the distance.

*The thrill when Dhoni hit that 6 to win the World Cup final for India.

*Reading the religious/spirituality sections in the local newspapers.

*How the ancient and the modern overlap in Mylapore.

*The call of the muezzin from a mosque across the river before dawn.

*Empty streets during India vs. Pak match of the ICC World Cup semi final.

*Hearing (un)quotable lines during the Divas-who-lunch luncheon with Rehane at The Park.

*Standing with the other quiet people from Chennai at the edge of the Bay of Bengal as the sun rises.

*Delicious ayurvedic meals eaten in a certain order that provides energy all day long.

*Drinking fresh coconut juice during the hot days of summer.

*Eating lunch at the old Amethyst in its lush green garden.

*Strong / sweet South Indian coffee.

*The lingering stickiness of coconut oil on the skin after an ayurvedic massage.

*Sticky fingers after eating ripe Alfonso or Imam Pasand mangoes.

*The strong smell of jasmine standing behind a lady wearing flowers in her hair.

*The delicious South Indian thali.

*Spring blooms of local trees, especially the Rain Tree (“sleepy face” in Tamil) and the Neem (“the village pharmacy.”)

*The proliferation of NGOs and groups jumping in to meet the needs of other people and animals, like Blue Cross — www.bluecrossofindia.org, the first animal shelter in Chennai advocating for animal rights; Sahodaran working on HIV/AIDS education and prevention with MSM and the Transgender communities; the DEAN Foundation administering palliative car — www.deanfoundation.org; or the dedicated self-starters at the TN Handicapped Federation Charitable Trust — www.tnhfctrust.in.

*Learning that Tamil Nadu has progressive policies for transgender persons, and encountering a warm reception to me and my partner as gay persons.

Bryan is the chief of Consular Services at the US Consulate General and Anandaroopa is an activist and strong supporter of the gay rights movement in Tamil Nadu.

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