Shining like a light in the middle of the noisy, hectic, chore-infested tunnel of every day is that magical oasis of calm and snacking — teatime. Whether you’re a Hatter of questionable sanity with a dormouse and rabbit for company or with Silky, Moonface and the Saucepan man atop Enid Blyton’s Faraway Tree in the Land of Tea Parties (my personal favourite land), there’s no question that the time between 4 pm and 5 pm is best spent at tea. It must be some of the quirks we inherited from our days spent in the Empire. Rich, poor, old, young, carb-conscious or not, catch an Indian sipping their tea, hot snack at hand and you will see that momentary bliss — eyes half closed, mouth slackening, a sorely yearned for sweet lull.

I consider it a matter of precious joy that I am able to descend, three squabbling children in tow, on my mother’s house most evenings for tea. Echoing the years of our childhood behind us, huge jugs of tea are made and then we discuss what is healthiest to eat for a snack. By the time we’ve decided to not buy croissants, dissuaded Gynelle from “baking a quick cake” or cheese sandwiches and sent someone to the shop for a quick bhelpuri, it’s time to make another jug. And so it goes on.

This Easter week is dedicated to the Royal Wedding. The last time round, my mother made piles of sandwiches (and tea) and we sat and watched Charles and Diana’s fairytale beginning live on the telly for four hours (look how that ended!) Still, on April 29, for old times’ sake, we’ll watch Will and Kate have their ceremony and then their thoroughly modern Royal knees-up. And we’ll have a proper old high-tea to go with it. Would you care to join us?

Victoria Sponge

What better way to start the festivities than by baking the simplest cake with the grandest name. Christened after Queen Victoria who fancied a slice or two with her tea (hence, no doubt, her figure), this is the most basic of sponge cakes, gilded with a spot of jam, a sprinkle of sugar and a smear of cream. Well, considerably more than a spot, sprinkle and smear… Perfecting a simple sponge cake is great for bake-phobic cooks like I am. Have I perfected the simple sponge? No. But the five-year-old and her chef uncle Glen made this very cake. It’s sometimes called a pound cake because you use a pound of all the main ingredients.

Note: The fine bone-china crockery in the picture is part of an antique Royal Albert set gifted to my mum by her friend Sally D’Aguiar. (Thanks Aunty Sally!)

Ingredients:
For the cake:
250 gms flour
250 gms icing sugar
250 gms butter
5 eggs
1.5 tsp baking powder
1 cap full vanilla essence

For the icing:*
1 cup raspberry jam
500 gms icing sugar
250 gms butter
* The traditional Victoria Sponge is iced with jam and whipped cream but butter icing works better. If you can access great quality double-cream that is stiff when whipped, then there’s really no argument.

Method
Preheat your oven to 180OC. Now, in a large bowl, using an electric whisk at medium speed, cream the butter and sugar together until the sugar is properly dissolved. Break each egg separately in a bowl (to make sure one bad egg doesn’t spoil your batter) and while still whisking add the eggs in. Put in the vanilla essence. Beat till nice and fluffy. Leave to stand while you sift the flour and baking powder together in a sieve. Now, this is important: Gently fold the flour into the egg, butter mix. Don’t handle it too much because it will affect the texture of the cake. Don’t worry about it not being perfectly incorporated, it sorts itself out in the oven. Fold gently into your greased baking trays. If you’re making one big cake then you need to bake for about 40 minutes. Two smaller trays will take 20 minutes.
Make the icing by whipping the sugar and butter together until incorporated. You can add a drop of vanilla essence to the icing as well.

When the cakes are baked, leave them to stand until cool. If you have one big cake, slice it carefully in half across the centre so you can make a sandwich. Spread jam and the butter icing in the centre of the cake. Using a sieve dust a snowstorm of icing sugar on the top and it’s ready to serve, your Majesty.

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