The Tsukuji Market in its essence is a veritable wonderland for any Jap food aficionado, and when Mikusu, the new Jap-influenced simplistic Pan Asian restaurant opened at the new luxury hotel Conrad Bengaluru recently, executive Chef Praveen Shetty, able executive sous chef Dolphy Lobo and their team were overwhelmed by the array of delights they could brandish to give the Ooru foodie a very authentic experience. Mikusu, which in Japanese means a blend, brings the akami tuna, Hokaido scallops, macha icecream, flounder fish, and so much more from those perfectionist-seeking Japanese vendors at the market. Clearly, the focus is on quality, and the Tsukuji experience comes right here in the city, across Ulsoor Lake, instead of the Sumida Lake in Tokyo!
But first, the chicken. Phew! A buttery, juicy, succulent bite that was cooked so beautifully, it made one gasp at the uplifting experience. Yeah, we have been guilty of not liking or ordering chicken as most clearly cook it to death, and serve it dry and uninspiring. But this one, aka Chef Dolphy Lobo, for the first time in a long while (the other was when a Le Roche culinary graduate friend made it similarly), we kept taking seconds, and thirds. FULL MARKS! Must-have. The restaurant invites all Pan Asian cuisine aficionados, with a flavourful, spiced infused menu, be it at their famed sushi bar, robatayaki grill or the wok and roll. Chef Lobo regaled us with delectable morsels of chicken probably taking it as a challenge once we declared our dislike! “You must taste our chicken,” and we did. Scrumptious! Half-hour later, we chorused, you must taste the chicken — rarely have we had such a delicious morsel.
The soup, a light zundo red clear vegetable soup with crunchy veggies in a special Gochujang chilli paste made with the famed Korean chilli was alright, subtle, a spiced hit. The asparagus carpacchio inspired by the Peruvian ceviche came doused in truffle oil and soya. Unique, slightest of asparagus slices, delectable in truffle, soy and spice. A bundle of perfect spiced peppery rocket lettuce completed it. Very good.
The famed robatayaki grill is infused with real charcoal for a singular smokey yum bit. The Robata grilled chicken & leeks skewers were relished, loved the leeks, The Sake teriyaki Grilled salmon was perfection in the flakiest of bites and The Grilled prawns, Teriyaki glaze with togarashi butter was lipsmacking — cooked beautifully, juicy with welcome charcoal bursts. Beautiful.
The sushi holds pride of place — salmon and tuna sashimi with a yellow tail Nigiri. The salmon’s freshness was unmistakable, and so was the akami tuna, dunked into salty soy with the freshest and most pungent wasabi. Kick of sushi proportions! Delicious and in a few mouthfuls, it was over! The yellow tail roll was perfect, with its hint of crunch around the ends and creamy freshness inside. Served on stone slab, freshness, wasabi kick, we wanted more. One thing though, the plating could have been more artistic.
For the mains, we left it to Chef Dolphy to order from the currently on Lantern Festival but in retrospect should have ordered from the more interesting menu. We had the vegetables and pok choy that came crunched, subtle in flavouring, and a simple fried rice. Alright. The Hunan chicken was where we stopped in our tracks. Beautiful, buttery chicken peppered and classic. The lamb in a hot garlic avatar was flakey, and alright. Very simple. The menu has some great options — gyoza, dimsums, a sushi extravaganza, etc, wish we had space to chomp away. The ambience with its large double ceilinged glass walls is welcome, to appreciate the shrubbery, and the interiors with its open grill, sushi bar, etc are easy on the eye, simplistic as Japs like it.
Chef Dolphy informed us that the Norwegian salmon comes from the famed market in Japan, the macha and more. “There are very few serving the robatayaki on charcoal, most offer gas options which is what makes us different,” explains Executive Chef Praveen Shetty who's signature cuisine lies in European and local Mangalorean food, and comes in an Italian and French flourish at the European restaurant Tiamo, which is a must-visit, a dreamy terraced and gazebo beauty with an infinity pool. “I like the homemade pasta, ravioli, we do a nice burrata too served with gazpacho," he recommend. Yes, that’s next on agenda!
Lobo, who was earlier with Delhi's Mansingh, Wasabi by Morimoto, and before with Taj Palace Mumbai, has infused Jap tenets and added Thai and Chinese flavours. “I was with Wagamama, as executive chef for the entire Riyadh operations,” says Chef Lobo, who explains the unique robatayaki taste, “We glaze it on a 100 percent charcoal grill. Normally, one is to one ratio of sake, mirin and sugar is used. We use a two ratio of soya, that gets its inherent smokey flavour. We make a bulk quantity Mikusu teriyaki sauce which cures and ferments, the meat is dipped into it, and it gives that enriched and fermented flavour.”
His favourite dish is the shabu-shabu, nabemono hotpot dish of thinly sliced beef and vegetables boiled in water. He hopes to get the belly part of his sushi meat, and is planning on adding a white fish carpacchio with flounder and of course Hokaido scallops. No pork on the menu, though we spotted a tenderloin.
We ended our meal with the Kafir lime mousse with a kafir lime flavour which surprisingly went well with the creamy mousse and the macha icecream. Prices are on the higher side, and the service is impeccable. Yum. Simple wholesome flavour in a menu that offers Pan Asian, Mikusu is "su" Bella!
Kensington Road, Ulsoor
Call: 22144444
Meal for two: Rs 3500 – Rs 4000
The lantern festival is on Till 4 march
