Long jackets have made a stylish comeback this A/W as a wardrobe essential
A model showcases a printed robe by designer Sidharta Arya
When Altuzarra and Chloe showcased a line of robes for the Autumn/Winter fashion show, we couldn’t help but acknowledge their resemblance with our very own achkan. Perhaps, the design sensibilities differ but there’s no denying their close proximity.The robe’s versatility has always charmed fashionistas, and this season, the desi avatar of this style has emerged as an essential trousseau piece and a chic substitute for warm outfits.
“Long robes or achkans are defining ‘formal power dressing’ in Fall fashion. Capes and robes are dominating fashion runways like never before. The big difference this season comes from a change in attitude. Earlier if it was restricted for a slender frame, now it has entered the ‘okay for everyone,’ zone,” says designer Parul J. Maurya. The normcore bride is happy to go for a blend of vintage and contemporary — cascading capes and floor length achkans with the deep V plunging neckline and long slits till the waist teamed up with a simple lehenga skirt is an exquisite silhouette for her. Parul says, “To add more to the story, digital printing with hints of swarovski, appliqué, laser burning are now calling the shots. And of course, those who can’t resist embroideries, stick to kantha work, gota work and resham, dori and pearls in velvet. Keep it opulent but with a minimal approach.”
Designer Pawan Sachdeva also gives a nod to the dominance of long jackets in modern bride’s trousseau. “If you are wearing an achkan, try keeping the rest of the outfit understated,” he says. His advice is backed up with a slew of ideas. “Though new age bridal wear is about an understated look, nobody minds a pop of colour or a stand out piece in the ensemble. A bright phulkari achkan nicely compliments an understated skirt.
You can opt for a red achkan with mirror work and team it with a same tone lehenga.” Pawan recommends a long printed robe in the company of white shirt and cigarette pants. However, all these tips come with a caution, as the designer adds, “Print mixing is big this season but let’s escape the print on print in this style.”Interestingly, designer Chhaya Mehrotra calls achkans as “a perfect silhouette that looks good on most body types”. She says, “The subtle yet classy look is best defined with embellished buttons and woven collars on your achkan. Those on the look out for some extra shine on brocades and dupion silk can add a hint of dull gold for embellishment as in rhinestones, dabka or zari.”
Designer Deepika Govind tips a slight change in the bottom wear. “Pair achkan with a dhoti pants, or opt for a voluminous skirt. Combination is the key here — raw fabrics with a coarse feel look good with soft silk.”
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